[Formula8]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

After having seen your cam spec, a liter bore brace would be an insurance policy that would probably never be needed UNLESS you later decided to install a roller like Tom has described.

Not sure if that was directed at me but (1) most gear heads have a tendency to up their game over time. I am no different and my new motor is built with serious overkill with this in mind. My block was on the stand and I was deburring the valley so the timing was right to add a brace. I threaded my lifter bores for restrictors too although I have no current need for them. Either of these modifications would be a pain in the ass on an engine while it was assembled and sitting in your car. (2) There is a member on this board with exactly the same cam and lifters I am running who cracked a lifter bore. I don't know if he wants to chime in but again, the cost of the fix (new block with all of the attendant machine work, cam, lifters at a minimum) is several magnitude the cost of preventing failure. And the irony is that if you did have a failure and had to do it all over again. I am 100% sure you would buy a lifter brace for your new motor anyway.

[Steve C.]

I suspect the OP is asking for interest or general information. Based on a previous post he has a hydraulic flat tappet cam in mind for his current build, not a roller cam. At first a Summit 2802 cam was proposed but now It appears he will be using a Voodoo hydraulic flat tappet cam with 233 @.050".


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[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by Formula8

Not sure if that was directed at me but (1) most gear heads have a tendency to up their game over time. I am no different and my new motor is built with serious overkill with this in mind. My block was on the stand and I was deburring the valley so the timing was right to add a brace. I threaded my lifter bores for restrictors too although I have no current need for them. Either of these modifications would be a pain in the ass on an engine while it was assembled and sitting in your car. (2) There is a member on this board with exactly the same cam and lifters I am running who cracked a lifter bore. I don't know if he wants to chime in but again, the cost of the fix (new block with all of the attendant machine work, cam, lifters at a minimum) is several magnitude the cost of preventing failure. And the irony is that if you did have a failure and had to do it all over again. I am 100% sure you would buy a lifter brace for your new motor anyway.

Is your handle "64 Speed"? In most cases, a lifter bore brace is really isn't needed for a NORMAL street engine(under 450hp), Will I install one in the 3" main 421 I'm planning to build? Absolutely, but we're talking a mechanical roller cam.

[Formula8]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

Is your handle "64 Speed"?

No but I didn't see where he listed what cam he is running. You stated "After having seen your cam spec". So I assume you mean from another of his postings. Not a big deal, I think we are all on the same page. Probably not necessary for this application or mine but nice to have for future growth if it should come.

[Steve C.]

As noted in Jim Butler's comments in my post #3 one would have to run a very big solid roller cam to come near to 200 degrees duration at 0.200" valve lift. The top cam in his list being 282 at .050 with 195 at 0.200". Even a Comp Race hydraulic roller cam with a whopping 276 @.050" isn't close with 185 degrees at 0.200".

But that's observing the ' 200 degrees duration at .200 lift ' adage often mentioned. There is more to consider like spring pressure, and maybe the rocker arm ratio as well. But either way as Tom suggested it's a lot of cam for most street cars here.

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