[alanmay0]

So I have tried adjusting the valves on my 1967 GTO three times now. The first time I did the method there you but #1 cylinder on TDC and then there are several valves you can adjust. Then you put #6 cyl on TDC and adjust different valves. So I did that. They say looses the rocker nut until the push rod starts to get finger tight and then turn the nut 1/2 turn and do this for all the valves. Well I did and when I started it up I heard valve rocker clicking, indicating to me that some of the valves were not adjusted properly. So next I did the adjust while running method where you loosen each valve until it begins to tick loud and then you tighten it until the click stops and then you turn it 1/2 turn more. then and took it out for a spin and the push rods on cyl #1 came off. One broke. So I removed the intake manifold, valley pan etc. and got the broken push rod out and then adjusted the valves the same way as the first time but only this time I could see the cam so was sure where the valve was. Put it all together and now I hear a ticking sound (loose valve rocker) and when I rev it up I get a popping noise something like I heard just before the # 1 push rods came off when I was test driving it.

So I am at a loss as to what to do next. Any and all suggestions welcome.

thanks
alan

[pastry_chef]

Use the EO-IC method.
(Exhaust Opening and Intake Closing).

Set the intake valve lash when the exhaust valve is beginning to open.

Then set the exhaust valve lash when the intake valve is closing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEqDKDMB1gk

Make sure you understand before you start. Take it slow and focus.

[tom s]

what kind of rocker nuts are you using?If factory they need to be TQ down to 20lb,they can not be used for adj valve train.Tom

[shaker455]

Do you have stock cam & rockers?
Have your lifters been in service and are pumped with oil?
The simplest method is to follow the firing order and bring each cylinder to TDC by hand.
Balancer lined up with zero on timimg cover
pop dist cap to assured your on #1
Mark the balancer @ 12, 3 , 6, & 9 oclock position
Rotate balance 1/4 turn to follow each cylinder in firing order
Stock cam is torqued to 20 ft/lbs

[gtospieg]

the popping sound(through the carb?) would mean you have at least 1 valve too tight

[alanmay0]

Yes I believe that these are the factory nuts. I was thinking that maybe they were coming loose. How does the torque down to 20 lb work. How do I do it? Should I buy new nuts? If yes what kind?

thanks

[Mister Pontiac]

Originally Posted by alanmay0

Yes I believe that these are the factory nuts. I was thinking that maybe they were coming loose. How does the torque down to 20 lb work. How do I do it? Should I buy new nuts? If yes what kind?

thanks

With the factory “bottleneck” studs, the factory nuts simply bottom at the bottleneck, and then allow a 20lb torque to hold them tight. They are metal “cinch nuts,” so they’re only designed to be tightened and torqued down once, not to be used for adjustment.

If you want to adjust the valves as you’re describing, you will need to get a set of polylocks. Polylocks allow you to set the lash with the outer “nut,” then allow you to tighten them and lock them in place with the inner “screw” inside the nut. The screws bottom on top of the studs, allowing a solid lock down, at your self adjusted height.

Hope that helps.

[alanmay0]

OK will the polylocks work with the original size valve covers

[Mister Pontiac]

Originally Posted by alanmay0

OK will the polylocks work with the original size valve covers

Yes.

[skullbucket]

Originally Posted by alanmay0

OK will the polylocks work with the original size valve covers

He can't use polylocks with stock bottle neck studs can he?

[shaker455]

What's your status today Alan?

[tom s]

I just sold a set of poly locks for stock studs.I never used them.Would be nice to know more about what cam and if the head have been milled.If all stock he should be able to just TQ down 20lb and be good?Tom

[Mister Pontiac]

Originally Posted by skullbucket

He can't use polylocks with stock bottle neck studs can he?

He can, but will need 3/8” polylocks for the bottleneck studs.

When doing this, a situation can develop where a polylock bottoms on the bottleneck, but that’s no different than using the factory crimp nuts at that point. However, I don’t think any will bottom out, giving room for some adjustment. Either way, it’s a win over crimp nuts.

Ideally, you should replace the studs with 7/16” studs and use the 7/16” polylocks, but not necessary in a mild setup. That can also get into needing different rockers to go over the bigger studs, etc... depending on what you’re starting with. Cheaper, simple solution is to leave everything alone, and install 3/8” polylocks on the factory studs & rockers in lieu of crimp nuts.

Hope that helps.

[skullbucket]

When I got my GP last summer it was "rocker knocking" so I took the covers off and I thought the studs were pulling out of the heads then I realized someone adjusted them like a Chevrolet, I laid a strait edge on the studs and they were all the same height. I backed the stock crimp nuts all off and torqued to 20lb and its quite as a mouse and runs smooth.

[alanmay0]

Went to Summit Racing and bought a set of Mr Gasket 920 rocker arm locking nuts. Will try them in an hour or so.
thanks
alan

[alanmay0]

So when you do the torque setup do you make sure cylinder is at TDC and then torque the nuts to 20 lbs? thanks
alan

[78w72]

if this is a stock cam, the #1 & #6 method works great & is by far the simplest way of setting adjustable rockers. but if they are stock nuts you cant use the zero lash + 1/2 turn. again if this is a stock cam i would just torque them to the 20lb/ft per factory.... this will place the lifter in the correct position & should stop any ticking noises if the cam/lifters are in good shape.

if you do go adjustable with poly locks, pioneer makes some for the 3/8 studs that have a recessed area to not bottom out. im running them on a mild cam 400 & they work great & fit under stock covers.

for now to verify there is no damage or other issues, i would just torque the stock nuts down to 20 & see how it runs/sounds. doesnt need to be at TDC because all the nuts end up in the same location once torqued.

[400 Lemans]

Originally Posted by alanmay0

So when you do the torque setup do you make sure cylinder is at TDC and then torque the nuts to 20 lbs? thanks
alan

With the 920 MR Gasket nuts you bought you cant use the 20lb torque like the stock nuts do. Adjust them like you were originally trying. in first post.

[alanmay0]

I bought and installed the Mr. Gasket adjustable nuts. Engine seems to run fine. I still have a miss that I have had forever and can't for the life of me figure out. But that's another story. Thanks to all your suggestions once again fixed my problem.
alan

[Kenth]

Originally Posted by Mister Pontiac

He can, but will need 3/8” polylocks for the bottleneck studs.

When doing this, a situation can develop where a polylock bottoms on the bottleneck, but that’s no different than using the factory crimp nuts at that point. However, I don’t think any will bottom out, giving room for some adjustment. Either way, it’s a win over crimp nuts.

Ideally, you should replace the studs with 7/16” studs and use the 7/16” polylocks, but not necessary in a mild setup. That can also get into needing different rockers to go over the bigger studs, etc... depending on what you’re starting with. Cheaper, simple solution is to leave everything alone, and install 3/8” polylocks on the factory studs & rockers in lieu of crimp nuts.

Hope that helps.

Pontiac never used crimp nuts from factory.
If you like you can use Chevy crimp nut for adjusting the rockers and they will work just fine.
Been using Chevy crimp nuts for adjusting rockers in my 1966 GTO for at least 15 years, that way i can use the baffles under valve covers. With polylocks the baffles wont fit.