[adynes]

I don't know how the Fitech works, but my Megasquirt only powers the pump for 2 seconds to prime the system when the key is turned on, and doesn't power the pump again until it sees a tach signal when cranking the engine. If you are keying the car on and then crawling underneath to look at the regulator/gauge, the pump might not actually be running. I would jump full 12v to the pump from the battery while troubleshooting and getting the regulator set.

Ideally, the regulator will hold pressure after priming, but if there is even the smallest leakage across the ball and seat (or across the injectors, or the pumps internal check valve), it will bleed down in short order. A very small leakage is not a problem while the pump is running though as it can be an insignificantly small percentage of full pump flow.

As to the car only sputtering when trying to start it, you might need to bleed the air out of the fuel line since you have it set up deadhead style. Or just crank it more and let it self bleed, but that might take a while.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by adynes

I don't know how the Fitech works, but my Megasquirt only powers the pump for 2 seconds to prime the system when the key is turned on, and doesn't power the pump again until it sees a tach signal when cranking the engine. If you are keying the car on and then crawling underneath to look at the regulator/gauge, the pump might not actually be running. I would jump full 12v to the pump from the battery while troubleshooting and getting the regulator set.

Ideally, the regulator will hold pressure after priming, but if there is even the smallest leakage across the ball and seat (or across the injectors, or the pumps internal check valve), it will bleed down in short order. A very small leakage is not a problem while the pump is running though as it can be an insignificantly small percentage of full pump flow.

As to the car only sputtering when trying to start it, you might need to bleed the air out of the fuel line since you have it set up deadhead style. Or just crank it more and let it self bleed, but that might take a while.

The FiTech does function like this. It is only sending fuel if it sees rpm at 200 or better. The factory style starter in my 455 won't turn the engine that fast, so what you end up doing is priming the system, it fires off, then fuel starts flowing.

I believe in the pro tuning software you can adjust that parameter, but I have not as it's never been a problem for me.

[adynes]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

The FiTech does function like this. It is only sending fuel if it sees rpm at 200 or better. The factory style starter in my 455 won't turn the engine that fast, so what you end up doing is priming the system, it fires off, then fuel starts flowing.

I believe in the pro tuning software you can adjust that parameter, but I have not as it's never been a problem for me.

If that's the case, I think he def needs to jump 12v to the pump to set the regulator and probably for first startup. Bleeding the line at the throttle body would probably help too (with the pump off, residual pressure only). If running full time 12v to the pump for the first startup, do it in such a way that power can quickly be removed in case of a fire.

[Jack P.]

Originally Posted by adynes

If that's the case, I think he def needs to jump 12v to the pump to set the regulator and probably for first startup. Bleeding the line at the throttle body would probably help too (with the pump off, residual pressure only). If running full time 12v to the pump for the first startup, do it in such a way that power can quickly be removed in case of a fire.

He can do that in the set up, their is a lock out feature [full 12v]as noted a couple posts back from the Tanksinc. site.

[adynes]

Originally Posted by Jack P.

He can do that in the set up, their is a lock out feature [full 12v]as noted a couple posts back from the Tanksinc. site.

I was thinking that was just to disable the pump PWM function while the engine was running, not to make the pump run full time while the key was on but engine off...

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Based my comment off all the production car stuff I have seen Jason.
Zero experience with aftermarket assemblies.
I've changed out a lot of production pumps and assemblies. And repaired many nylon lines.
Ear clamps are what I have always seen/used, like the upper clamp on your assembly, with thin wall nylon tubing.

The worm gear clamp is what came with the pump?

Summit.... and Jegs more so, are great with warranting/returning defective/unneeded parts.

Your makin' (forward?) progress at any rate.

Lots of info on working with nylon fuel tubing on YOUWHOTUBE.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Based my comment off all the production car stuff I have seen Jason.
Zero experience with aftermarket assemblies.
I've changed out a lot of production pumps and assemblies. And repaired many nylon lines.
Ear clamps are what I have always seen/used, like the upper clamp on your assembly, with thin wall nylon tubing.

The worm gear clamp is what came with the pump?

Summit.... and Jegs more so, are great with warranting/returning defective/unneeded parts.

Your makin' (forward?) progress at any rate.

Lots of info on working with nylon fuel tubing on YOUWHOTUBE.

Yes the worm gear clamps are part of those kits. You have to heat up the nylon tubes and press them on the pump outlet as well as the hat inlet/outlet.

[Squidward]

My assembly came with the pump tube already on the pump body with an ear clamp. Directions are to trim the discharge and return tubes to accommodate tank depth, and then install pump/sock. I'm guessing worm gear clamp was specified because most customers might not have access to ear clamp pliers. I don't think it was a clamp issue that broke mine. I think it was because the outlet nipple was plastic, and the outlet tube was pretty unflexible. Combine that with a small hole, and it must've snapped off somewhere in the process. They included 2 sock screens: One for use in a retrofit app, and one for use with a Tanks, Inc. tank. I used the retrofit, which is a fairly long "wet screen" style. It seemed pretty cool, and should allow a large area for fuel suckage. But it is large, and fitting it into the hole is a PITA. I might use the smaller "other" screen that is a more traditional filter screen, just to make sure I don't replicate the same result.


Summit is doing a return for me, which is why I throw lots of $$$ at those guys. Their customer support and commitment is top notch. The replacement isn't supposed to ship until 4/8, tho.

Once I get the pump I will see if the rest of the system is up to snuff. And dayum... submersible fuel hose is ex-pen-sive... $30 a foot!