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Old 03-23-2018, 04:00 PM
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adynes adynes is offline
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Originally Posted by JLMounce View Post
The FiTech does function like this. It is only sending fuel if it sees rpm at 200 or better. The factory style starter in my 455 won't turn the engine that fast, so what you end up doing is priming the system, it fires off, then fuel starts flowing.

I believe in the pro tuning software you can adjust that parameter, but I have not as it's never been a problem for me.
If that's the case, I think he def needs to jump 12v to the pump to set the regulator and probably for first startup. Bleeding the line at the throttle body would probably help too (with the pump off, residual pressure only). If running full time 12v to the pump for the first startup, do it in such a way that power can quickly be removed in case of a fire.

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Old 03-23-2018, 05:09 PM
Jack P. Jack P. is offline
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Originally Posted by adynes View Post
If that's the case, I think he def needs to jump 12v to the pump to set the regulator and probably for first startup. Bleeding the line at the throttle body would probably help too (with the pump off, residual pressure only). If running full time 12v to the pump for the first startup, do it in such a way that power can quickly be removed in case of a fire.
He can do that in the set up, their is a lock out feature [full 12v]as noted a couple posts back from the Tanksinc. site.

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Old 03-23-2018, 05:27 PM
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adynes adynes is offline
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Originally Posted by Jack P. View Post
He can do that in the set up, their is a lock out feature [full 12v]as noted a couple posts back from the Tanksinc. site.
I was thinking that was just to disable the pump PWM function while the engine was running, not to make the pump run full time while the key was on but engine off...

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Old 03-25-2018, 05:16 PM
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STEELCITYFIREBIRD STEELCITYFIREBIRD is offline
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Based my comment off all the production car stuff I have seen Jason.
Zero experience with aftermarket assemblies.
I've changed out a lot of production pumps and assemblies. And repaired many nylon lines.
Ear clamps are what I have always seen/used, like the upper clamp on your assembly, with thin wall nylon tubing.

The worm gear clamp is what came with the pump?

Summit.... and Jegs more so, are great with warranting/returning defective/unneeded parts.

Your makin' (forward?) progress at any rate.

Lots of info on working with nylon fuel tubing on YOUWHOTUBE.

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Old 03-25-2018, 06:26 PM
JLMounce JLMounce is offline
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Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD View Post
Based my comment off all the production car stuff I have seen Jason.
Zero experience with aftermarket assemblies.
I've changed out a lot of production pumps and assemblies. And repaired many nylon lines.
Ear clamps are what I have always seen/used, like the upper clamp on your assembly, with thin wall nylon tubing.

The worm gear clamp is what came with the pump?

Summit.... and Jegs more so, are great with warranting/returning defective/unneeded parts.

Your makin' (forward?) progress at any rate.

Lots of info on working with nylon fuel tubing on YOUWHOTUBE.
Yes the worm gear clamps are part of those kits. You have to heat up the nylon tubes and press them on the pump outlet as well as the hat inlet/outlet.

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Old 03-25-2018, 07:20 PM
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Squidward Squidward is online now
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My assembly came with the pump tube already on the pump body with an ear clamp. Directions are to trim the discharge and return tubes to accommodate tank depth, and then install pump/sock. I'm guessing worm gear clamp was specified because most customers might not have access to ear clamp pliers. I don't think it was a clamp issue that broke mine. I think it was because the outlet nipple was plastic, and the outlet tube was pretty unflexible. Combine that with a small hole, and it must've snapped off somewhere in the process. They included 2 sock screens: One for use in a retrofit app, and one for use with a Tanks, Inc. tank. I used the retrofit, which is a fairly long "wet screen" style. It seemed pretty cool, and should allow a large area for fuel suckage. But it is large, and fitting it into the hole is a PITA. I might use the smaller "other" screen that is a more traditional filter screen, just to make sure I don't replicate the same result.


Summit is doing a return for me, which is why I throw lots of $$$ at those guys. Their customer support and commitment is top notch. The replacement isn't supposed to ship until 4/8, tho.

Once I get the pump I will see if the rest of the system is up to snuff. And dayum... submersible fuel hose is ex-pen-sive... $30 a foot!

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Old 03-26-2018, 04:16 AM
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TCSGTO TCSGTO is offline
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Don’t the Fitech throttle bodies have a built in pressure regulator? I didn’t think you needed one unless you remove the regulator from the TB.

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68 GTO,3860#
Stock Original 400/M-20 Muncie,3.55’s
13.86 @ 100
Old combo:
462 10.75 CR,,SD 330CFM Round Port E's,Old Faithful cam,Jim Hand Continental,3.42's.
1968 Pontiac GTO : 11.114 @ 120.130 MPH

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517 MR-1,10.8 CR,SD 350CFM E's,QFT 950/Northwind,246/252 HR,9.5” 4000 stall,3.42's
636HP/654TQ
1.452 10.603 @ 125.09
http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-GTO...lip-31594.html
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