[Va68goat]

After months of testing and diagnosing, we're finally going to replace the lifters. Paul installed Hylift - Johnson lifters with a part number A-234S. By running that part number, this is pretty much what I find.

https://www.pluswhole.top/pontiac-ra...7-p-13615.html
For some reason, the link isn't showing the "S" on the part number. Paul has confirmed the part number ending with an "S".

Is anyone familiar with these lifters or know where I can find them? I checked Butlers but the part numbers are different. If anyone can provide another alternative to these lifters that I have or know where I can find the lifters that Paul used, I would appreciate it. It seems that Paul can't locate another set of these lifters either.

Joe

[chiphead]

The part number changed according to Paul K. Now the lifters are only available with the E suffix, which is pressure fed pin oiling. It makes sense, since you want positive oil feed to the rollers. The S (slow bleed) and R (fast bleed) are still good PNs.

A-2347SE is the set you want, and is what I have.

I recently got a set from Paul K, who is an engine builder who posts here. However, I just did a search and the H-J website is down. Hopefully just a glitch.

If you want to use another brand, there are a few threads on here about HR lifters. They go into deep comparisons of the various designs.

[MXTex]

I just scimmed through this entire thread. (slow day at work....lol) It's a fascinating read. I'm in agreement with determination of the frequency of the tick. Is it in synch with the rotation of the crankshaft or camshaft?

[Va68goat]

NeighborsComplaint,

I used the same flex plate bolts that were used when it was on the 400 motor. I'm going to have to check that out though. Good idea..thank you!

torqhead,
Now you're making me want to put the car up on jack stands right now and see if thats the issue. As I said before, I'm inexperienced with these old cars but I'm sure learning a lot. Thats solid advice you gave me. Hopefully I can get a chance this week to check that out. This knocking noise has killed me all summer long..if thats the issue, I'll be sending you a bottle of something..hahaha.

ponchjoe,
The knocking noise is present in gear and in neutral/park. The torque converter is not used. I ordered it from Cliff. I'm not sure about the front pump.

TedRamAirII,
Yeah, Paul inspected the flexplate and balanced it. Yes, we did pull the converter back and the knocking noise was still present. The flex plate wasn't on the motor when it was shipped. It was torqued to specs on the day we installed the motor. We did inspect the flexplate when the motor was pulled and it seemed fine. I'm really hoping this will fix the problem. We're hopefully going to change the flexplate this week or this weekend. I will post updates.

Since I'm changing the flexplate, do you guys think it would be a good idea to change out the flexplate bolts as well.
https://butlerperformance.com/i-2445...-200-2904.html

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by Va68goat

NeighborsComplaint,

I used the same flex plate bolts that were used when it was on the 400 motor. I'm going to have to check that out though. Good idea..thank you!

torqhead,
Now you're making me want to put the car up on jack stands right now and see if thats the issue. As I said before, I'm inexperienced with these old cars but I'm sure learning a lot. Thats solid advice you gave me. Hopefully I can get a chance this week to check that out. This knocking noise has killed me all summer long..if thats the issue, I'll be sending you a bottle of something..hahaha.

ponchjoe,
The knocking noise is present in gear and in neutral/park. The torque converter is not used. I ordered it from Cliff. I'm not sure about the front pump.

TedRamAirII,
Yeah, Paul inspected the flexplate and balanced it. Yes, we did pull the converter back and the knocking noise was still present. The flex plate wasn't on the motor when it was shipped. It was torqued to specs on the day we installed the motor. We did inspect the flexplate when the motor was pulled and it seemed fine. I'm really hoping this will fix the problem. We're hopefully going to change the flexplate this week or this weekend. I will post updates.

Since I'm changing the flexplate, do you guys think it would be a good idea to change out the flexplate bolts as well.
https://butlerperformance.com/i-2445...-200-2904.html

I realize you have a new flexplate to install, but I would highly recommend trying to find what is making the noise before making any further changes. Too many times I've seen throwing money and changing parts doesn't fix a problem and all it does is take money you could have spent elsewhere. If you listen to that video the noise gets prominent right at the point where you're under the flywheel. And you already determined disconnecting the torque converter it still makes noise which means it's forward from the flywheel.

Lets find what's producing the noise! Use the method I mentioned as it's safer and it'll give you a good look as to what may be going on there. I'm hoping like hell you find it there and get this behind you so you can enjoy the car.

[surfsama]

Sorry if this was already covered but after watching the video it seems like the knocking taps are slower than the crankshaft rotational speed.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by surfsama

Sorry if this was already covered but after watching the video it seems like the knocking taps are slower than the crankshaft rotational speed.

I would tend to agree with that. Does this engine have a mechanical fuel pump? If it does, take it off and run the engine for 30 seconds or so until the carb runs out of gas and listen for the knock. Seems the valve train has already been accounted for. If it doesn't have a mechanical pump, I am out of ideas. It was likely run on the Dyno with an electric pump only.

[Va68goat]

Well, I don't know if this will help anyone come up with a guess. What do you guys think? Don't mind the smoke coming from the exhaust pipe. I spilled a little oil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdHjFtXOP_Y