[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by dataway

On my bone stock engine it's close but not that close maybe 1/4" or 3/16".

I thought it may be closer than that? who knows. The answer to the issue will be interesting! I hope its soon, and not any major issue. I wonder if the windage tray is hitting somewhere? maybe it was a little "too close" somewhere?

[chiphead]

Originally Posted by TedRamAirII

I thought it may be closer than that? who knows. The answer to the issue will be interesting! I hope its soon, and not any major issue. I wonder if the windage tray is hitting somewhere? maybe it was a little "too close" somewhere?

I would think that if the crank were to hit the pump drive, the results would be catastrophic.

On my Scat crank build, it's really close between the rear counterweight and the hardened oil pump drive. It appears to be less than .100", but I'm not sure how to check it. Is there a safe minimum?

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by chiphead

I would think that if the crank were to hit the pump drive, the results would be catastrophic.

On my Scat crank build, it's really close between the rear counterweight and the hardened oil pump drive. It appears to be less than .100", but I'm not sure how to check it. Is there a safe minimum?

"Hitting" was the wrong word, "Rubbing" may be more what I had in mind. Keep in mind this has engine has almost been disassembled since Paul put it together. I never did hear why the poly locks were adjusted at such different heights.

I have all the confidence in Paul. I'm not dissing him at all. No doubt he knows what he is doing. It just one of those things. I'm sure he wishes he was there to check this personally.

[Va68goat]

NeighborsComplaint,
Well....I find what you wrote pretty interesting!

[Va68goat]

NeighborsComplaint,
When you had the same noise on your motor, were there witness marks or evidence of the rubbing on the pan?

[mgarblik]

Well, it may be best to get the engine back in the hands of the gentleman who can verify and correct the engine to your satisfaction. It's unfortunate you have the long distance situation to deal with.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by Va68goat

NeighborsComplaint,
When you had the same noise on your motor, were there witness marks or evidence of the rubbing on the pan?

Couldn't tell really. The shop that welded the pickup to the pump put the pickup tube in a vise so there marks all over it.

When I fired the motor for the first time, the previous owner was there and crawled under the car immediately as he noticed the sound and said something is wrong, you have some kind of interference in the bottom end. At first he thought maybe the rear main seal had spun but it wasn't leaking. It sounded like yours. Not a knock, just a scuffing sound. We pulled the motor, flipped it over and removed the pan. Checked the bearings first, inspected the rear main seal, checked the lower dipstick tube and windage tray.

I pulled the oil pump and pickup out and spun it with a drill to listen for noises and found nothing. As we were putting it back together, the prior owner noticed the shop had cocked the pickup )large tube RA IV style) slightly when they tacked it to the pump and the pickup wasn't level left to right.

The pan had a fairly tight baffle and you had to angle the pan to get it over the pickup. With the pan resting on the gasket you could move the pan slightly to align the bolt holes and feel the baffle bump the pickup tube. We ground some clearance on the baffle instead of waiting to have the pump pickup rewelded, reassembled and fired it up and the noise was gone.

I could be wrong and I know your pan has no baffled sump, but when I listened to your vid, I thought damn I've heard that sound before.

[Va68goat]

Holeshot71,

I think we used the Fel-Pro metal gaskets. I'll take a look and confirm when I look at the pile of receipts.

[Holeshot71]

Originally Posted by Va68goat

Holeshot71,

I think we used the Fel-Pro metal gaskets. I'll take a look and confirm when I look at the pile of receipts.

This is why I asked. I tried to use the "tin" fel pro gaskets with the round compressible surface between aftermarket RA manifolds and 6X heads. I found that the round surface didn't compress in some areas due to surface mismatch. The manifolds did say to use the fel pro performance header gaskets which I did use and had no issues.

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by Holeshot71

This is why I asked. I tried to use the "tin" fel pro gaskets with the round compressible surface between aftermarket RA manifolds and 6X heads. I found that the round surface didn't compress in some areas due to surface mismatch. The manifolds did say to use the fel pro performance header gaskets which I did use and had no issues.

The brand new manifolds out of the box were warped BAD! When I set them on the granite slab, there was probably a .040" bow in them. This has been the case with most of these manifolds I have installed new. So we took them and surfaced the gasket surface until they were flat. The steel gasket should work fine with them. Out of the box I could see you having to use the Fel-pro blue header gaskets or some Remflex. After surfacing them, they were flat so there should have been no need for special thick gaskets.