[grivera]

I believe Joe will be doing some more testing this weekend. If he unbolts the converter from the flexplate pulls it back and the noise remains, will that rule-out the flexplate being the culprit?

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by grivera

I believe Joe will be doing some more testing this weekend. If he unbolts the converter from the flexplate pulls it back and the noise remains, will that rule-out the flexplate being the culprit?

I would say yes, because there is no flex going on when the two aren't bolted together. If it doesn't go away and the flexplate is rotating by itself, the noise should change appreciably, I would think it should go away though.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Next step should be a surgical clean oil and filter inspection. That's with a spotless clean white or clear drain pan.
I'd stick a flex head pocket magnet in the oil drain hole to see if any of the previous metalic paint look is present now and if it was ferrous or nonferrous.
Use the same magnet to check filter contents and oil in the pan.

If that oil is fresh and clean...It can go back in.

Joe was told that X amount of metal in the oil was normal for a new engine. This unknown X amount should've been gone after a few oil changes I would think.

With Paul's honing process and roller cam....I think this engine had way too much glitter look in the filter and oil pan pics.

IF metalic is still present and if the filter bypass is functional....This engine could be in worse shape than the original knocking noises.

The first converter un-bolt had no affect on the bottom end noise or the collapsed lifter type noise on top.

Hard to tell watching videos, but in the most recent top side vids, the knocking sounds more defined and louder.

IDK for sure but know what I think
Clay

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

"There was a difference between the short block oil pump and my motor. "

"Difference"...details of this ?

Hope this (is?) isn't another quality issue with an aftermarket part!
Lord knows they're widespread.

I had a new one, Melling M54DS, sitting in box, in my bedroom, the driven gear seized to the idler shaft, and I mean locked up tighter than a whore's heart. Purchased about 3 years ago.
They did switch to the thin lower plate from the previous one I bought... 20+ years ago, same pump but old one came in a Sealed Power box.

[wbnapier]

[QUOTE=STEELCITYFIREBIRD;5988764]"There was a difference between the short block oil pump and my motor. "

... locked up tighter than a whore's heart...

I haven't heard that one. I'll have to borrow it that saying if you don't mind.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by grivera

I believe Joe will be doing some more testing this weekend. If he unbolts the converter from the flexplate pulls it back and the noise remains, will that rule-out the flexplate being the culprit?

In most cases yes, unless it is actually a crack at the mounting surface of the flexplate where it meets the crank flange. It could also be contacting something protruding from the pan or block (but not very likely).

As for glitter, I would have to go back and look at the pics, honestly don't recall off the top of my head, but I do remember there were no red flags. Not sure if it was the pics, or if it was residual from the windage tray and valley pan, but I saw no reason for alarm.

Yeah, I recall the first converter pull back and results (I wasn't present), which is why I commented on the flexplate hub and possible crack there. Long shot, but can't honestly say if it was checked in depth enough to tell if it was a crack somewhere else, other than the common converter mount points. Should know soon enough though.

.

[Va68goat]

dataway,

"LeGoaT/As" and I actually spoke about the sound file that you did. We referred to that and the slow motion video that I took. That was very helpful and I appreciate what you took the time to do. The thing is Paul and Jeff requested / suggested several things to rule out before having to send the motor back. The thing is this...I was told by Paul and Jeff that if I send the motor back to them and they can't repeat the knocking noise, I'm going to have to pay for shipping to and from Arizona. I already have spent $1,600 in parts, tools and fluids conducting diagnosis on this motor since I've received it. Not including over 80 hours of friends helping me trying to figure out the problem.
If the issue turns out to be something on their end, they agreed to cover the cost of shipping to and from. There is no denying that the noise at first start is the same as the noise that is happening now with the exception of the windage tray that was being hit due to the incorrect spacing.

STEELCITYFIREBIRD,

I'm going to do my best to describe the difference. I have ZERO experience with this stuff but here is my best untrained explanation. When we used a screwdriver to turn the oil pump quickly by hand, there seemed to be a "clicking noise" and there was some resistance. I really don't have the experience with cars to have a reference point as to what it's supposed to feel like and sound like. So, LeGoaT/As had a short block with an oil pump on it and the pan had oil. When I turned the oil pump on the short block, there was no clicking noise and the resistance was not as great. I don't know if the difference in oil pumps could be the explanation for the difference in the resistance and that "clicking" noise. I know when Paul built my motor there was an issue with the pickup tube and he had to weld the pickup tube to the oil pump.

LeGoaT/As also used an old distributor and attached a drill to it to turn the oil pump. The resistance was more pronounced through the use of the drill because we had more consistent revolution using the drill (we spun the pump at a lower speed, not maxed out that the drill could do). I hope this makes sense and I'm explaining it well enough for you guys to get a better feel of what is going on.