["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by JMB36TA

One thing I read was to cover the front opening with your hand to see if the engine races, mine dies.

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

You may know this but just to be clear, you only partially cover the primary side of the air-horn with your hand. Don't choke it out completely. You're just interrupting the air flow a bit to see if it's rich or lean in the idle circuit.

Need to try this again

Like Greg said, don't choke the engine out. Just start restricitng air flow to see if the engine idles up or idles down.

Also might need to check for more vaccum leaks.

This car got the hot idle compensator on back?

Clay

[JMB36TA]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Need to try this again

Like Greg said, don't choke the engine out. Just start restricitng air flow to see if the engine idles up or idles down.

Also might need to check for more vaccum leaks.

This car got the hot idle compensator on back?

Clay

I choked it out but as I slowly covered it I didn't notice any change in idle until I got close enough for it to die.

I've been checking for vacuum leaks over and over and haven't found anymore. All vacuum lines are new. I haven't checked around the carb since I put it back on Monday night so I'll check that again. But I had this problem before I took it off that night.

Yes it has the hot idle compensator. It's off an Olds so it has this little spring and rod sticking out the back. I sealed around it so there's no leaks according to Cliff's instruction. Maybe I should find a new compensator and cover?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Was there parts under the cover? The cover holds the compensator in place.
To run without, the holes in the carb body need plugged.

Also need to find out if those are the right mixture screws. I was thinking 69 used the blunt nose mixture screws, where yours appear to be the long tappered nose. Can't say for sure on that but Cliff or some one else might know.

Clay

[JMB36TA]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Was there parts under the cover? The cover holds the compensator in place.
To run without, the holes in the carb body need plugged.

Also need to find out if those are the right mixture screws. I was thinking 69 used the blunt nose mixture screws, where yours appear to be the long tappered nose. Can't say for sure on that but Cliff or some one else might know.

Clay

Yes the part was under the cover. I'm 99% sure that I put it back in but now that you mention it I'm going to have to check. There would be no reason that I left it out other than I over looked it.

Don't know about the screws but would they really make a difference?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by JMB36TA

Don't know about the screws but would they really make a difference?

I can't remember when the nose shape changed on the screws.

Pretty sure the long tapper screws would bottom out on the spring before cutting idle fuel off. That's if your base plate is suppose to have the blunt nose mixture screws.

Might try taking a spring off to see if the screw will go in further and kill the engine at idle...???

Even with lots of bypass air, should still be able to cut off idle fuel.

Clay

[JMB36TA]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Might try taking a spring off to see if the screw will go in further and kill the engine at idle...???







Clay

I’ll try this tonight after I get home from work.



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[Kenth]

1. If you have drilled for .110" idle bypass air, replace the drilled throttle blades for undrilled.
2. If inlet needle clip is located in one of the float arm holes, relocate it properly, hang the clip in from behind of float arm
3. Check for excessive fuel pressure, no more than 5 psi for 1974 or earlier Olds Qjets.
4. Check for too high float, not higher than .250".

Hope this helps some.

[TedRamAirII]

Is there any good simple way to check fuel pressure on a QJet? seems like I would have to make a mickey mouse type of hoses and fittings to do it.

[JMB36TA]

So the donor carb didn't work very well, it ran worse. It spit, sputtered, popped, and idled rough. It didn't have a choke so that was part of the problem when I first started it but it didn't idle well after it warmed up. I'm going to put my old idle pick up tubes and power piston spring back in mine and see how that goes. I got the new throttle plates without the holes in them and tried to put them on last night but all 4 screws broke off in the shaft and I can't get them out. I also ordered a distributor tune up kit. I'm at a complete loss.