[Stan Weiss]

Looking at somethings some others have posted this maybe a little closer to what it is.

Stan

[kyle_blake]

looks to blurry when i open up pic.

[Stan Weiss]

Sorry but it does not want to show correctly.

It is 807 wide and when i checked it says max 800. So I cropped it to under 800 and then under 700 and it still does not show correctly.

Stan

[Stan Weiss]

Abs last try. Redid image and cropped it and also new name, looks like that worked.

Stan

[TAQuest]

That looks right. Thanks.

Going to be ordering parts today and that will come in handy.

[steve25]

I come up with 9.47 to 1 comp even with leaving out the ring land clearance volume which would drop the compression even more!

PV=50.742
Head gasket volume , fel pro 1016, 9.4 CCs, .57336
Deck clearance .018", .2433
Valve notch volume, 6.7 CCs, .40888
Combustion chamber 74 CCs,=4.516

56.7089
---------- =9.47 to 1
5.9849

Anyone care to not use a computer program and get on a hand held calculator and back me up here?
Thanks in advance!

[TAQuest]

The valve springs to match the Voodoo cam for these Edelbrock heads?

[AG]

I get a CR of 9.70 using a bore of 4.150" and 1.5 cc for volume above top ring and the rest of Steve's info. Swept volume is 831.2 cc and static volume is 95.6 cc.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

It would help if you had your actual installed height. Are you having spring pressures set up by a machine shop? A good fresh set of seals are easy at the time of spring install.

[Steve C.]

Stated- "The valve springs to match the Voodoo cam for these Edelbrock heads?"

Do a 'advanced' search under gtofreek (Paul Carter) and type in Voodoo. Read them ! Of the people that post here he has had the most experience with Voodoo lobes. Confirm it but I believe he posted for their smaller hyd flat tappet lobes you will find Paul Carter would in recommend 130 lb on the seat for a spring. And remember that should be after run in, and all springs lose a bit of pressure as they are broken in.

The Edelbrock head should have a 1.800" installed height. Probably won't matter a whole lot but as I've already stated they have been known to vary slightly as assembled and delivered from Edelbrock.


.

[TAQuest]

Thanks. I'll check the installed height. No problem with measuring. I have all the tools for that. Nice to have that 1.8 to confirm it.

Use the weak edelbrock springs for run in then put the real deal ones on?

[TAQuest]

Here's a picture of the cover back off so you can see how I had the chain lined up.





https://share.icloud.com/photos/0UB0...r_Township,_MI

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

You verified correct TDC ....piston to mark?
If you have a spring off to check IH, take spring to a shop and see what you have for seat and open pressure.

[Jay S]

I have been following along here on the side lines. Maybe my thoughts will be of help/maybe not..

Compression between 9.4-9.7 is what my guess. Guys already have that narrowed down pretty close.

I think you are about ready to do a cam change only to be back were you started.

Cam timing is probably correct now. It was clearly wrong before. Odds of the indexing being off that much is pretty slim. Since you corrected that, and it runs worse now, it indicates to me the advanced cam timing was somehow nursing the engine problem along.

Are there pictures of the spark plugs anywhere on this thread? What are they? What heat range? Could it be the engine is wanting a plug with a colder heat range?

May I suggest checking this with a timing light would be a worth while and save you some greif. Get or barrow an adjustable light so you can check where the timing comes in at and the full advance. Then you can also tell if the light starts jumping around when the issues start to occur. Might help you track down module and pickup issues.

I have used that basic 204/214 cam in a ton of engines. We messed with advancing/retarding on one of them. You can retard it a bunch and still run good. Adding advance you find yourself walking around the car to see if someone hooked a trailer behind the car. But generally the adv/ret did not cause an engine miss, they just quit making power. The compression test looks to me like it was dead on where I would expect for the compression and the various cam timing check so far.

Anyways, hope you get it figured out. Lots of great advice going on already. Defineltly needs a better cam, but sure would be nice to find the issue first.
Jay

[TAQuest]

Still have to make that piston stop.
I think it was Stan's picture of it.
The one with the spark plug with a bolt through it.
Once I make that can you describe exactly how to use it?
Thanks.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by Jay S

I have been following along here on the side lines. Maybe my thoughts will be of help/maybe not..

Compression between 9.4-9.7 is what my guess. Guys already have that narrowed down pretty close.

I think you are about ready to do a cam change only to be back were you started.

Cam timing is probably correct now. It was clearly wrong before. Odds of the indexing being off that much is pretty slim. Since you corrected that, and it runs worse now, it indicates to me the advanced cam timing was somehow nursing the engine problem along.

Are there pictures of the spark plugs anywhere on this thread? What are they? What heat range? Could it be the engine is wanting a plug with a colder heat range?

May I suggest checking this with a timing light would be a worth while and save you some greif. Get or barrow an adjustable light so you can check where the timing comes in at and the full advance. Then you can also tell if the light starts jumping around when the issues start to occur. Might help you track down module and pickup issues.

I have used that basic 204/214 cam in a ton of engines. We messed with advancing/retarding on one of them. You can retard it a bunch and still run good. Adding advance you find yourself walking around the car to see if someone hooked a trailer behind the car. But generally the adv/ret did not cause an engine miss, they just quit making power. The compression test looks to me like it was dead on where I would expect for the compression and the various cam timing check so far.

Anyways, hope you get it figured out. Lots of great advice going on already. Defineltly needs a better cam, but sure would be nice to find the issue first.
Jay

Thanks Jay.

Here's the deal;
It ran pretty good with the dots not lined up. Just not really good. Had that rpm wall at 3200. So the dots not lining up wasn't a mistake at all. The cam had been degreed, that's why the dots didn't line up. Bad on me for wishful thinking that just lining up the dots would fix it.

If I install a new cam PROPERLY, how can anything go wrong and why wouldn't that cover everything that was the problem(internally) before?

I get rid of the problem and have a better cam to boot.

Shoot some holes in that theory for me.

Thanks.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

You verified correct TDC ....piston to mark?
If you have a spring off to check IH, take spring to a shop and see what you have for seat and open pressure.

That piston stop is what I need to do that, correct?

[Steve C.]

Sorry, not trying to muddy the water here but a fwiw mention to reinforce my statement about how valve springs can lose a bit of pressure as they are broken in. I have on hand information on a very fine engine build by Ken Crocie. Within the article note these comments....

"The valvespring pressure is set at initial setting of 130 pounds on the seat, with 320 pounds open pressure"

Important to note Ken used a Rimac machine to measure the valvesprings BEFORE they were installed. I've personally mentioned this a million times ! The spring was compressed to the installed height and the resultant seat pressure (closed) is indicated.

It was also noted the installed height was set at 1.800 inches for the Edelbrock cylinder heads in use. A combination of shims were measured to achieve this result. It was interesting to note in the article that the shims vary in thickness by several thousands of an inch, therefore the stack selected should be measured to ensure the proper stack height.

The article goes on....

"After running on the dyno, we knew the valvespring pressure would ease down toward Comp Cams' rated value on the seat. The actual pressure after a day on the dyno is 122 pounds"

Note they lost 8 pounds pressure.


.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

Sorry, not trying to muddy the water here but a fwiw mention to reinforce my statement about how valve springs can lose a bit of pressure as they are broken in. I have on hand information on a very fine engine build by Ken Crocie. Within the article note these comments....

"The valvespring pressure is set at initial setting of 130 pounds on the seat, with 320 pounds open pressure"

Important to note Ken used a Rimac machine to measure the valvesprings BEFORE they were installed. I've personally mentioned this a million times ! The spring was compressed to the installed height and the resultant seat pressure (closed) is indicated.

It was also noted the installed height was set at 1.800 inches for the Edelbrock cylinder heads in use. A combination of shims were measured to achieve this result. It was interesting to note in the article that the shims vary in thickness by several thousands of an inch, therefore the stack selected should be measured to ensure the proper stack height.

The article goes on....

"After running on the dyno, we knew the valvespring pressure would ease down toward Comp Cams' rated value on the seat. The actual pressure after a day on the dyno is 122 pounds"

Note they lost 8 pounds pressure.


.

Thanks again Steve. You have been a big help.

To keep this simple I'll use the springs that are on the heads now. If a problem arises later then I will change the springs.
How does that sound? Can you see any problems with that?

[TAQuest]

Did the youtube tutorial on the piston stop. Have it down cold now. Will have TDC nailed.