[TAQuest]

It runs good. Still has more valve noise than it had with the smaller cam. Ran it for another 20 minutes at 2000 rpm just to make sure the cam was completely broken in. Not sure what more I can do to get rid of the extra valve noise. Might have to live with it.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by TAQuest

This time I had the covers off so I could see the rockers. I bring up the mark and see the rockers are even with each other so I assume they are closed and it's compression stroke. That's where I was wrong. The rockers look almost the same when at TDC on compression or exhaust stroke. So I was confident I was right when I was wrong. Bad place to be. That was the second shoe to fall. I learned that this morning by realizing that I was wrong and confident yet again on start up. At least now I know how and why I was wrong twice. Not going to do that again.

Originally Posted by TAQuest

It runs good. Still has more valve noise than it had with the smaller cam. Ran it for another 20 minutes at 2000 rpm just to make sure the cam was completely broken in. Not sure what more I can do to get rid of the extra valve noise. Might have to live with it.

If you adjusted valves like you was doing the distributor install....You need to go back and adjust valves again.

How much preload did the new lifters call for?

How did you check the preload?

What technique did you use to lock the polylocks down? Need to turn the nut for the final lock instead of just tightening the set screw.

Clay

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

If you adjusted valves like you was doing the distributor install....You need to go back and adjust valves again.

How much preload did the new lifters call for?

How did you check the preload?

What technique did you use to lock the polylocks down? Need to turn the nut for the final lock instead of just tightening the set screw.

Clay

I followed the instructions with the cam. It said to rotate the crank the way it normally rotates until you see the exhaust valve open then set the intake valve. Then roll it over until you see the intake open and then set the exhaust valve. I did it one cylinder at a time like that.

One half turn lash after the push rod doesn't move up and down anymore.

After I have the half turn lash then I held the nut with a wrench so it didn't turn and tightened the set screw.

[chiphead]

Yup, glad you caught that. The polylock nut/setscrew needs to be tightened together to properly lock against the top of the rocker stud. 1/2 turn on a 7/16 stud is usually .050" of preload, which should be good unless they are short travel lifters.

I usually set the 1/2 turn, then tighten the setscrew lightly against the stud. Then turn the box wrench and allen wrench together. Usually ends up a little more than 1/2 turn of preload once you cinch it all down.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Half turn is correct for a BBC "WITH" 1.7 ratio rocker arms.

While your heads do have BBC size studs...You do not have 1.7 rockers. So 1/2 turn may not get preload to manufacturers minimum spec.

At zero lash (no slack at all) the pushrod will be just a little harder to spin with your fingers. Feeling for up/down is way before you get to zero lash.

Need these lifters preload specs. Then measure the first valve adjustment to see how much turn it takes to get preload right where you want it. Then you can just do the turn thing on the rest of the valves.

With preload set with less than the minimum spec...You could easily have clickety click valve noise. That clickety click is hard on all your valve train components.

And just barely finger tight with the set screw so the nut can turn and lock it down. Little more preload is better than not enough.

Clay

[69 Limelight]

In post #100 you say the instructions said to "rotate until intake opens then set exhaust". You sure it didn't say to "rotate until intake opens then continue rotating until intake is almost closed then set accompanying exhaust preload"? That's what instructions for all I've ever done said. Not continuing to rotate until intake is almost closed exhaust may have not been quite on base circle and be the source of your light clacking (not quite enough preload). I don't know, just a thought.

[pastry_chef]

EO - IC method.
The exhaust opens BBDC
The intake closes ABDC

Originally Posted by 69 Limelight

In post #100 you say the instructions said to "rotate until intake opens then set exhaust".

At intake opens neither lobe will be on the base circle.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by 69 Limelight

In post #100 you say the instructions said to "rotate until intake opens then set exhaust". You sure it didn't say to "rotate until intake opens then continue rotating until intake is almost closed then set accompanying exhaust preload"? That's what instructions for all I've ever done said. Not continuing to rotate until intake is almost closed exhaust may have not been quite on base circle and be the source of your light clacking (not quite enough preload). I don't know, just a thought.

It says(word for word) to rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation until the exhaust valve begins to open. At this point adjust the intake valve to zero lash with no pre load at the lifter, then tighten one more half turn. Rotate the engine again until the intake valve has fully opened. Now you can adjust the exhaust valve to zero lash, then 1/2 more turn. Repeat this procedure until each cylinder is completed.


I'll go back over it and make sure the intake valve is closing when I set the exhaust.

[HWYSTR455]

Not 'rotate until intake valve has opened, and then almost closed' ?

I'm betting you used new lifters. Would you have happened to clean them? If not, that could be part of your 'tick' problem, the packaging lube can harden and make them 'lazy'. Best to always disassemble and clean them before use.

You can run some mild detergent like Marvel Mystery Oil, and in time, it will loosen that stuff up. Just a suggestion.

.

[HWYSTR455]

Comp Cams version of adjustment:

http://www.compcams.com/technical/in.../comp4-116.pdf

Excerpt:

"Begin by rotating the engine over again until the intake valve
reaches maximum lift and is almost all the way back down. Then set the exhaust valve using the same method as the intake (.030” to .040”, or ½ to ¾ a turn of the wrench past zero)."

.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

http://lunatipower.com/Tech/Valvetra...nGeometry.aspx

Trying to see rocker to spring/retainer , valve closed like this:

You may need different pushrods

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

http://lunatipower.com/Tech/Valvetra...nGeometry.aspx

Trying to see rocker to spring/retainer , valve closed like this:

You may need different pushrods

I can check that. That's what the Lunati tech said, may need different push rods.

The other pic you have from the mustang forum for clearance. There's a relief in the rocker arm on these that gives lots of clearance.

[TAQuest]

When I called the Lunati tech he said I might need different push rods but didn't offer any advice on how to decide on what length I needed. It turned out that the originals worked fine with the 1.5 rockers.
I found that the post below with the link to the turtorial on checking the travel of the rocker roller on the valve stem was very helpful to know if your pushrods were the right length for your combination of variables.

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

http://lunatipower.com/Tech/Valvetra...nGeometry.aspx

Trying to see rocker to spring/retainer , valve closed like this:

You may need different pushrods

[TAQuest]

Here are the instructions that came with the Voodoo 703 cam that I installed with the Edelbrock round port heads.

Originally Posted by TAQuest

It says(word for word) to rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation until the exhaust valve begins to open. At this point adjust the intake valve to zero lash with no pre load at the lifter, then tighten one more half turn. Rotate the engine again until the intake valve has fully opened. Now you can adjust the exhaust valve to zero lash, then 1/2 more turn. Repeat this procedure until each cylinder is completed.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Post some pictures of your rocker to valve alignment open and closed, clear and well lit, from a few angles.Closed is the area of most interest.
Then Run a pattern on the valve tip and post up a pic with rocker off.

[johnta1]

I'm fairly certain the valve sounds were not attributed to errors in adjusting the lifters.
So I need to think of what else it could be.

Use a stethoscope or similar device and narrow down to where the noise is coming from?
Could be many other things causing a valve like noise or even other stuff making the valve noise.

Narrowing noise down could make it apparent what the problem is.
(better than all the grasping at straws without being there)

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Use a stethoscope or similar device and narrow down to where the noise is coming from?
Could be many other things causing a valve like noise or even other stuff making the valve noise.

Narrowing noise down could make it apparent what the problem is.
(better than all the grasping at straws without being there)

Covers are off. Not running right now.
The noise started after the cam swap. The old cam was smooth idle. This one is the Voodoo 703. Lifter change. Geometry change.
I can't tell where the sound is exactly coming from. Doesn't seem like one spot. It's spread out and on both sides.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Post some pictures of your rocker to valve alignment open and closed, clear and well lit, from a few angles.Closed is the area of most interest.
Then Run a pattern on the valve tip and post up a pic with rocker off.

Coming right up on the first part.
Could you explain the second part?

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Post some pictures of your rocker to valve alignment open and closed, clear and well lit, from a few angles.Closed is the area of most interest.
Then Run a pattern on the valve tip and post up a pic with rocker off.

I think I know what you are asking for on the second part. You want me to paint/dye the valve tip and run a cycle so you can see where the roller travel is on the valve tip.

[TAQuest]

In the 'adjusting the lifter' part of this, finding the base circle didn't seem that difficult.

The one post that helped me the most was this hint from Clay to check my technique used to tighten the polylocks.

I missed that last 'turning the nut down' after tighening the set screw.

If I hadn't learned the correct way I would have been chasing these locks around for a while.

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

If you adjusted valves like you was doing the distributor install....You need to go back and adjust valves again.

How much preload did the new lifters call for?

How did you check the preload?

What technique did you use to lock the polylocks down? Need to turn the nut for the final lock instead of just tightening the set screw.

Clay