["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by TAQuest

The 'ticking' noise is definitely lifters. It moves around from one to another. Not sure what's going on there. Maybe the next set of lifters will be better.

Are you still doing the 1/2 turn on the preload?

Not enough is not enough. Most any brand lifter is going to have some tick that moves around if it doesn't have enough preload.

When you hear lifter tick, especially moving around or coming and going, this tells you valve open or close is changing around. No one cylinder will fire with the same umph every time if valve events are changing. On a scale of one to ten...Tuning requirements would be eleven plus. Or possibly require some state of de-tune to make cylinders hit weaker?

Best I can tell, the 703 cam only has 53° of overlap. That's mildish stock cam range. Should be able to get it running "fairly" smooth at low rpm's. Now if you're wanting to lug along in high gear at idle speed...should've got the original cam running right because that's what it was designed for.

Get valves adjusted "RIGHT" and forget generic fit-um-all directions.

Get a timing light so you can fine tune the engine. It's not just for setting initial timing. You can use it to watch the advance curve and see what's really going on. Can't do that by ear.

Get a good vacuum gauge and learn how to use it. That's old school tuning that does still work today.

Clay

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Are you still doing the 1/2 turn on the preload?

Not enough is not enough. Most any brand lifter is going to have some tick that moves around if it doesn't have enough preload.

When you hear lifter tick, especially moving around or coming and going, this tells you valve open or close is changing around. No one cylinder will fire with the same umph every time if valve events are changing. On a scale of one to ten...Tuning requirements would be eleven plus. Or possibly require some state of de-tune to make cylinders hit weaker?

Best I can tell, the 703 cam only has 53° of overlap. That's mildish stock cam range. Should be able to get it running "fairly" smooth at low rpm's. Now if you're wanting to lug along in high gear at idle speed...should've got the original cam running right because that's what it was designed for.

Get valves adjusted "RIGHT" and forget generic fit-um-all directions.

Get a timing light so you can fine tune the engine. It's not just for setting initial timing. You can use it to watch the advance curve and see what's really going on. Can't do that by ear.

Get a good vacuum gauge and learn how to use it. That's old school tuning that does still work today.

Clay

Copy that.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Are you still doing the 1/2 turn on the preload?

Not enough is not enough. Most any brand lifter is going to have some tick that moves around if it doesn't have enough preload.

When you hear lifter tick, especially moving around or coming and going, this tells you valve open or close is changing around. No one cylinder will fire with the same umph every time if valve events are changing. On a scale of one to ten...Tuning requirements would be eleven plus. Or possibly require some state of de-tune to make cylinders hit weaker?

Best I can tell, the 703 cam only has 53° of overlap. That's mildish stock cam range. Should be able to get it running "fairly" smooth at low rpm's. Now if you're wanting to lug along in high gear at idle speed...should've got the original cam running right because that's what it was designed for.

Get valves adjusted "RIGHT" and forget generic fit-um-all directions.

Get a timing light so you can fine tune the engine. It's not just for setting initial timing. You can use it to watch the advance curve and see what's really going on. Can't do that by ear.

Get a good vacuum gauge and learn how to use it. That's old school tuning that does still work today.

Clay

I listened to your advice and tried a whole turn on the last adjustment. Nothing changed. It didn't tick with the lifters I took out. It does with these.
At some point you have to think it's the lifters.
If it doesn't tick with the new ones then we will know it was the lifters and not the adjustment.