[glhs#116]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Sam, I too am curious as to what weight oil you're running, especially since when it's cold it doesn't tick. If it's thin oil, try stepping up the weight, can't hurt, especially in your climate.

I think playing with preload is also a good idea, hyd lifters have a wide adjustment range, usually .030-.060. A full turn is pretty common.

Hyd lifters are dirty out of the box, even a simple wash isn't always enough. I found on the last few HFT setups I did I actually had to disassemble the lifters and clean them. Unbelievable the stuff that came out of the ones I took apart.

You're also not in a very clean enviro, that can lead to some tickers here and there.

.

Well, I'm on 15W30 with a can of STP for the post-cam break-in 200 miles. It is still barely visible clean on the dipstick as expected. There was no glitter in the cam break-in oil drain but I will admit that I didn't cut open the filter. I did run a couple magnets near the drain plug, though. Could still be valvetrain from more than one source..

I've been listening to the old tick I had before (the one that was a valve spring in the end) on the YouTube video. That tick was slower and a little lower pitched. This one does sound quite similar but a faster cadence. So I guess I can't rule out a bottom end source. But I just kinda don't think so.

The only difference on the bottom end this time is Jay's piston replacing my blown up one and the sleeve (which doesn't seem to be leaking). I did notice Jay's piston pin was stiffer than mine. My other seven are totally free. Jay's has a bit of stiffness to it. But it's not bad. Otherwise his rod and piston look like my other seven. Same pin height, same bore. I replaced all the rings and bearings..

Sam

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by glhs#116

Well, I'm on 15W30 with a can of STP for the post-cam break-in 200 miles. It is still barely visible clean on the dipstick as expected. There was no glitter in the cam break-in oil drain but I will admit that I didn't cut open the filter. I did run a couple magnets near the drain plug, though. Could still be valvetrain from more than one source..

I've been listening to the old tick I had before (the one that was a valve spring in the end) on the YouTube video. That tick was slower and a little lower pitched. This one does sound quite similar but a faster cadence. So I guess I can't rule out a bottom end source. But I just kinda don't think so.

The only difference on the bottom end this time is Jay's piston replacing my blown up one and the sleeve (which doesn't seem to be leaking). I did notice Jay's piston pin was stiffer than mine. My other seven are totally free. Jay's has a bit of stiffness to it. But it's not bad. Otherwise his rod and piston look like my other seven. Same pin height, same bore. I replaced all the rings and bearings..

Sam

That tight pin can cause piston slap. Might be the sound.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by glhs#116

Well, I'm on 15W30 with a can of STP for the post-cam break-in 200 miles. It is still barely visible clean on the dipstick as expected. There was no glitter in the cam break-in oil drain but I will admit that I didn't cut open the filter. I did run a couple magnets near the drain plug, though. Could still be valvetrain from more than one source..

I've been listening to the old tick I had before (the one that was a valve spring in the end) on the YouTube video. That tick was slower and a little lower pitched. This one does sound quite similar but a faster cadence. So I guess I can't rule out a bottom end source. But I just kinda don't think so.

The only difference on the bottom end this time is Jay's piston replacing my blown up one and the sleeve (which doesn't seem to be leaking). I did notice Jay's piston pin was stiffer than mine. My other seven are totally free. Jay's has a bit of stiffness to it. But it's not bad. Otherwise his rod and piston look like my other seven. Same pin height, same bore. I replaced all the rings and bearings..

Sam

Yeah, 15-30 I'm guessing is too thin, and can be contributing. Wouldn't hurt to try a 20-50, see if you have an improvement. Probably would be running at least a 15-40 if it were me, though don't recall you bearing clearances. That would also help in the event you do have sloppy pin clearances too.

Guessing you've checked the fuel pump eccentric too, and the pump itself? Close inspection of the distributor?

.

[glhs#116]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Yeah, 15-30 I'm guessing is too thin, and can be contributing. Wouldn't hurt to try a 20-50, see if you have an improvement. Probably would be running at least a 15-40 if it were me, though don't recall you bearing clearances. That would also help in the event you do have sloppy pin clearances too.

Guessing you've checked the fuel pump eccentric too, and the pump itself? Close inspection of the distributor?

.

Crap. Typo. I’m on 15w-40

Sam

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by glhs#116

Crap. Typo. I’m on 15w-40

Sam

On the oil.

Your oil pressure gage will tell you if you have a problem. If you have good pressure you shouldn't have any ticks.
If you see it fluctuating that will indicate a problem.

[Jay S]

Listened and watch your videos again. The 2nd video, drivers side sounds like the noise is being made over on the drivers side. When you moved the camera around on the drivers side the sound changed, especially when you went to the front and held your phone in front of the radiator hose. Then you moved the camera over to the passenger side and the tick continue but then the whirl of the roller rockers is pickup up in the mic. The rocker arm whirl on the drivers side seemed to be drowned out by the tick.

I know your planning changing the cam and lifters for the 60919. Thought I’d meantion it anyway. 2nd video was the only vid that I thought there was a difference.