[Will]

Dyno dyno dyno... yadda yadda yadda.

Get that thing to a track. That's the only dyno that means anything. If you never intend to race it, then who cares what that dyno sheet says? Get it tuned well and enjoy driving it. Dyno sheets are for bench racing.

[krisr]

Originally Posted by Will

Dyno dyno dyno... yadda yadda yadda.

Get that thing to a track. That's the only dyno that means anything. If you never intend to race it, then who cares what that dyno sheet says? Get it tuned well and enjoy driving it. Dyno sheets are for bench racing.

This!

Get the motor in, running and just go enjoy it.

[Va68goat]

August 5th 2018:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeOqYtY0Dng

July 14th 2019:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=To57VTU11xM

[Squidward]

That sounds like an exhaust leak. I like to use hi temp rtv with the gaskets. Hell... I've even had to weld extra flange material on headers to stop a leak. What gaskets are you using with those RA manifolds?

[Va68goat]

Here you go...

[mgarblik]

My comment is directed to the engine noise in the car now. If the engine was run on a dyno 4 times and had no noise, but does have the noise when installed in the car, then the problem has to be something in the car or the way the engine is sitting in the chassis. Is everyone absolutely sure nothing is rubbing, vibrating, touching, sitting against, any other part of the body or chassis that can be transmitting normal engine vibration through the car and to your ear? I find it hard to believe that this engine would be such a world traveler, have been tested 4 times out of the car, only to have the same problem when installed in the car once again. What a puzzler.

[MarkS57]

Sorry to hear the problem isn't resolved, that's gotta hurt. Just thinking of this, whenever problems arise in a mechanical assembly of any type, look back at the last problem area identified, don't know how many times over my career that has proved to be an invaluable clue. So in this instance, that would be the distributor, correct? What if the distributor bearing damage was not a cause but was damaged by some other issue? What connects to the distributor there- cam, oil pump, rear most cam bearing. Have you tried spinning up the oil pump by itself with a primer tool like this to see if that's where the noise is coming from? You may have done this already, I haven't read the whole thread.

https://butlerperformance.com/i-2445...-bpi-039p.html

BR's,

Mark

[torqhead]

Watching the video I would suggest the ignition system (distributor/spark) be gone over with a fine tooth comb. Make sure it's got good power!

A couple of observations, first when you try to start it you get that "cough" or minor backfire after a bit through the carb, that's a sign of spark firing too soon or when an intake valve is still potentially open. I doubt it was a side effect of heat/pre-ignition since you just started the motor for the first time.

Also, if you watch the pattern of the motor misfiring after the belt squealing stops you can see it's a fairly regular "timed" shake to the motor. I've seen something similar when plug wires are out of order or a bad connection which could be causing the "knocking" you're hearing if the timing isn't right for a particular cylinder(s). Which is not good for the motor, so best to sort this out before continuing to run it.

Also, that bolt that's been screwed in the middle of the carburetor where there would normally be the air cleaner attached. As your last post indicated, that hole goes all the way through the carb. That could be a vacuum leak if that bolt isn't "sealed" in there somehow.

I don't know HWYSTR455 personally but he's had some pretty good advice on the forum here and hopefully can help you chase down the problem. I'm sure he'll check out ignition, vacuum leaks, etc. Hopefully he can help you find the cause!

[Va68goat]

Paul E,

Paul had the distributor in his hands when he discovered the bad bushing. I'm pretty confident he would have noticed a crack but I can check that.

MarkS57,

Paul had the motor apart and I'm assuming since he discovered bad bearings, damaged piston rings, polished the crank and did a light honing of the block, he would have noticed the cam bearing. As for the oil pump. Several months ago when we pulled the motor, we switched out the oil pump and shaft and ran the motor. Same knock was present. We spun the pump by itself and did not hear anything unusual. This was done by another forum member who knows what to look and hear for.

grivera,

Early on I sent pictures to Paul of the windage tray which had the witness marks on it. He originally said the "One Washer" spacing could have caused the witness marks and the knocking noise. He advised to space the windage tray with two washers, which we did and the knocking noise was still present. That's when we worked out a deal for the carburetor. When the motor continued to knock after that, Paul said the witness marks on the windage tray were caused when he hand spun the motor checking for clearance of the windage tray. Of course that's when the deal with the carburetor fell through and I had to pay the difference in order to get my motor back.