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#1
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I will never race mine either but with Paul’s cam help, my expert local machinist, and butlers rotating assembly and ported round port heads I should have a hell of a machine. My machinist/engine assembler said looking at the parts and the cam specs 600 ft/lbs is not off the table
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
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#2
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Awesome build. That thing is sure to break some dumb kids heart that thinks his mustang/camaro is the fastest thing around.
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Let's make welfare as hard to get as Veterans benefits! |
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#3
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Wow, Joe. So sorry to read about this after all you've been thru.
![]() I'll offer up my advice. Of course it's only that, my advice, so feel free to take it or leave it. But if I were in your shoes, this is how I would proceed... First off, Paul has been thru the motor twice, and has discovered nothing catastrophic going on inside. Those bases have been covered. Second, since the same sound was not heard 'consistently' when the engine was out of the car, but has been heard "rhythmically" both before and after only when the engine is in the car, it seems to indicate the noise may be related to another part of the drivetrain. I know you have been thru the flex plate/converter bolt scenario and there is nothing wrong there. So while the culprit is still at large, you have eliminated another potential drivetrain problem there too. At this point, knowing these things, I would absolutely drive the car. A lot in fact. I would take it somewhat easy in the beginning, monitor the vitals (water temp, oil psi), and as you go, listen each time for the sound after you drive. If in fact you do have a mechanical issue where metal to metal contact is occurring, it should lessen as you drive as the problem continues to 'self clearance.' If however that's not what is happening, and you do have a failure looming (like a bearing or what have you), the noise will likely get worse as you drive. So don't be afraid of it. Drive it. Just don't hammer on it too hard for a while until you decide if the noise is slowly going away, slowly getting louder, or simply staying the same. Based on those results, the diagnosis will likely get easier. The hardest problems to diagnose are always the "almost broken" problems. Hope that helps some, and like the others, I'll be waiting to hear how things progress.
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Eric Mitten '74 Bonneville 4dr Sedan (455/TH400/2.93 open) '72 LeMans GT (455/M-13/3.23 [8.5"] posi) '71 GTO Hardtop (400/TH400/3.07 12 bolt posi) ‘71 GTO Convertible (455HO/TH400/3.23 posi) '67 GTO Coupe (455/ST-10/2.93 posi) Deuteronomy 8:3
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