[Formulajones]

What I've been doing most recently, if you really want electronic maintenance free stuff, is simply keep the points distributor and fire an MSD box with it.

Lots of benefits and no draw backs.

Points simply become a trigger for the box and no longer supplies a spark, so the points need no further maintenance and last for ever.

You gain a rev limiter and a multispark discharge.

The real beauty of it is that if the box ever quits, I can simply swap 2 wires on the coil and run off the points in a matter of 30 seconds, eliminating the box all together, and get home. Extremely easy road side fix. No more modules to fail, no spare parts in the glove box needed, no tools required.

In my opinion it's even better than an HEI. I've done that too in the past and yes I know when those modules quit you can carry a spare and swap it out. Been there done that. Still not very fun trying to pull the cap and rotor off, removing wires so you can rotate the cap out of the way, dealing with those tiny module screws and changing all that on the side of the road, and hope you don't drop something, lol. Especially no fun on a Pontiac that doesn't exactly have easy access to the distributor. With the points/MSD I'm simply plugging in 2 wires and done. It's clean, it's simple, and still looks completely stock.

The other nice thing is you aren't buying these cheap Chinese distributors with god knows what kind of quality control these days, worrying about bushings etc... and getting harder to find a good used OEM HEI these days that doesn't have a wobbling shaft.

[mback12000]

It's not zero maintenance, you still have rubbing block wear. But I see your point (get that pun). I actually trigger my Holley Dominator ECU with points (with factory distributor) although I use the computer for full electronic timing curve control as I have locked out both mech and vacuum advance. I did it temporarily for a first start, but then after dynoing the setup it proved to work perfectly and my laziness kept it. You need to check the point gap, the rubbing block still wears and when it does your timing changes.

Originally Posted by Formulajones

What I've been doing most recently, if you really want electronic maintenance free stuff, is simply keep the points distributor and fire an MSD box with it.

Lots of benefits and no draw backs.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by mback12000

It's not zero maintenance, you still have rubbing block wear. But I see your point (get that pun). I actually trigger my Holley Dominator ECU with points (with factory distributor) although I use the computer for full electronic timing curve control as I have locked out both mech and vacuum advance. I did it temporarily for a first start, but then after dynoing the setup it proved to work perfectly and my laziness kept it. You need to check the point gap, the rubbing block still wears and when it does your timing changes.

Actually you don't even have to worry about rubbing block wear. The box doesn't care what the dwell is. As long as the points open and close that's all it cares about.

Actually on the other cars I run strictly points in, I don't even worry about it. I check it once a year with a dwell meter and most often then not I don't even have to touch them.

I like your idea of running the ECU, sounds interesting.

[mback12000]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Actually you don't even have to worry about rubbing block wear. The box doesn't care what the dwell is. As long as the points open and close that's all it cares about.

If the dwell (point gap) changes, then the timing will change. This takes away one of the advantages of going to a breakerless design. Resulting timing creep will cost fuel economy and performance which may not be so obvious. This is similar to what Lust4Speed pointed out in his post - the inconsistent timing trigger (seen on the distributor machine) of bad points or the Pertronix is hurting you even though you may not realize it. I think most people who claim Pertronix has served them well are judging it by the fact the engine "apparently" runs well.

Yes, you're right, the ECU or MSD doesn't care what the dwell is, assuming they are "edge-triggered" devices. But the timing drift issue remains. My plan is still to ditch the points even though they work perfectly because mine are high spring pressure (to get rpm) and try the FAST points trigger replacement when I get around to it.

[242177P]

Originally Posted by mback12000

If the dwell (point gap) changes, then the timing will change.

As long as you've lubed the rubbing block, wear is negligible. Most
dwell change was the result of live contacts. If they're just triggering
an MSD, they pretty much last forever.

Besides, even crank triggers need attention sometimes.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 242177P

As long as you've lubed the rubbing block, wear is negligible. Most
dwell change was the result of live contacts. If they're just triggering
an MSD, they pretty much last forever.

Besides, even crank triggers need attention sometimes.

Correct. I use the felt pad soaked in oil that keeps the rubbing block lubed pretty well. I don't even bother lubing it as a maintenance practice. Matter of fact the 20 year old points I pulled out of my firebird that had about 45,000 miles on them looked virtually unscathed on the rubbing block and compared identical to the new set I put in. I could have simply filed the contacts on those points to clean them up a bit and put them back in service. There was really no need to even change them but I let a few guys here talk me into it when I was racing the car stating it would help, but the car never ran any quicker.

[mback12000]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Correct. I use the felt pad soaked in oil that keeps the rubbing block lubed pretty well. I don't even bother lubing it as a maintenance practice. Matter of fact the 20 year old points I pulled out of my firebird that had about 45,000 miles on them looked virtually unscathed on the rubbing block and compared identical to the new set I put in. I could have simply filed the contacts on those points to clean them up a bit and put them back in service. There was really no need to even change them but I let a few guys here talk me into it when I was racing the car stating it would help, but the car never ran any quicker.

Sorry, I don't mean to beat this to death, but if you didn't put a dwell meter on it you can't really know what changed in 45k miles. I'm not convinced you can see normal rubbing block wear. In 45k miles the nylon just isn't as long as it used to be and the dwell is different and therefore your timing has moved. Unless of course you have done maintenance. Yes I know what you're probably thinking, the car ran fine, lol.