[KEN CROCIE]

Best Gasket seals don't like aftermarket cranks with coarse serrations .They tend to melt and stop sealing.
Poly seals don't like coarse serrations either. You get poly-rubber dust as the serrations grind away the seal. You don't notice until the seal starts leaking and you pull the pan for repair.
Please check your aftermarket cranks to see if the serrations are as smooth as a stocker.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by KEN CROCIE

Best Gasket seals don't like aftermarket cranks with coarse serrations .They tend to melt and stop sealing.
Poly seals don't like coarse serrations either. You get poly-rubber dust as the serrations grind away the seal. You don't notice until the seal starts leaking and you pull the pan for repair.
Please check your aftermarket cranks to see if the serrations are as smooth as a stocker.

This. It depends on the crank you are using. Some even polish the crank's serrations beforehand to avoid these issues.

I've used the rope seal that comes with the FelPro kits great results. It just takes time to do it 'right'.

Neoprene seals, polish the crank. Since it's not an issue with any clearance per-se, you can use a piece of strip sandpaper to work it.

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[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

This. It depends on the crank you are using. Some even polish the crank's serrations beforehand to avoid these issues.

I've used the rope seal that comes with the FelPro kits great results. It just takes time to do it 'right'.

Neoprene seals, polish the crank. Since it's not an issue with any clearance per-se, you can use a piece of strip sandpaper to work it.

.

Originally Posted by KEN CROCIE

Best Gasket seals don't like aftermarket cranks with coarse serrations .They tend to melt and stop sealing.
Poly seals don't like coarse serrations either. You get poly-rubber dust as the serrations grind away the seal. You don't notice until the seal starts leaking and you pull the pan for repair.
Please check your aftermarket cranks to see if the serrations are as smooth as a stocker.

LOL I've mentioned this a couple times in the past when this subject comes up and get a bunch of people chime in that it doesn't matter

From what I've seen in my experience, the factory cranks are the ones with the serrations, and I've had to polish those down for the conventional seals. The aftermarket cranks, least the one dad is running, doesn't have any serrations in it and it's perfect for this type of thing.

[HWYSTR455]

For me it was the opposite, the OE cranks are fine with the rope seals, only with the neoprene seals the hash marks required attention, or at least checked.

Depending on the brand aftermarket crank, where the hash marks are more pronounced, require attention, with neoprene seals, but I can't say for rope seals, because I personally have not tried a rope on an aftermarket crank.

I think Eagle cranks have serrations, and Ohio ones don't, but don't quote me on that.


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[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

For me it was the opposite, the OE cranks are fine with the rope seals, only with the neoprene seals the hash marks required attention, or at least checked.

Depending on the brand aftermarket crank, where the hash marks are more pronounced, require attention, with neoprene seals, but I can't say for rope seals, because I personally have not tried a rope on an aftermarket crank.

I think Eagle cranks have serrations, and Ohio ones don't, but don't quote me on that.


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Well my s Scat forgings are smooth and the Eagle crank I just sold had the light serrations.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

For me it was the opposite, the OE cranks are fine with the rope seals, only with the neoprene seals the hash marks required attention, or at least checked.

Depending on the brand aftermarket crank, where the hash marks are more pronounced, require attention, with neoprene seals, but I can't say for rope seals, because I personally have not tried a rope on an aftermarket crank.

I think Eagle cranks have serrations, and Ohio ones don't, but don't quote me on that.


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Yes I agree, OE cranks are fine with rope seals, as they have the serrations. It was my understanding as I was told, the serrations were there for that. So when ever I switch over to a conventional seal (meaning a lip seal) I would either dress those serrations or have the machine shop do it in advance knowing that's what the engine was going to get.

Those seals are designed to work on a smooth surface, as seen in other applications like axle seals, timing cover seals etc..... Doesn't take a lot of thought to figure out those serrations might not be a good idea when switching to a conventional seal. But some people feel otherwise.

Dad's is an Ohio Crank. It's a smooth surface. I have pictures of the crank but nothing that shows the seal area at the moment. Going to do the rear main in it soon. Going with the 2 piece BOP as that's what I've always used with excellent results. Not pulling the crank out of this one.

Oddly Bischoff had trouble with this rear main when building the engine, and the BOP seal was replaced 3 times while on the dyno. Within a couple pulls it would leak horribly (another reason everyone should dyno their engines) Turned out the MR1 block didn't have venting back there and oil was trapped in that area.
Tony relieved the block and cap around the seal and the rest of the dyno pulls went leak free. Been a few years now and it's leaking again. Don't know what his install procedures are so I'll be curious to see what I find when I pull it apart. I've got my suspicions.