[shaker455]

Haha! Ya sure...lol.
Glad you got to take it out!

[Formulajones]

Glad to see you got the conversion done and making progress

It's just hard to beat the pump in the tank with big feed and return lines and your testing shows that. Best way to go in my opinion.

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Glad to see you got the conversion done and making progress

It's just hard to beat the pump in the tank with big feed and return lines and your testing shows that. Best way to go in my opinion.

Yeah, I understand the allure of staying mechanical. If your fuel system is in good shape otherwise, sure try to upgrade your pump. But if a car is like most of these when restorations start, with a tank or lines that need to be replaced anyway. There is just no good reason to not go in tank.


Though to be fair, my issues really only showed up on the track. That and slow starting after it sat for a week. Even with the electric I still get more drainback than I feel like I should. If it sits for a few days, I can hear the pump fill the lines when I turn the key on.

The swap overall went well for me. Converting the Robb regulator was a breeze, only had to run one line. I do need to bend my big 1/2 stainless feed line in one place. Currently because of its location I get a kink in the soft line on the way to the regulator. I got to eliminate about 8 feet of hose in the front of the car because the mechanical pump is on the opposite side of the fuel lines in a first gen Bird. Relay in the engine bay with only one big wire running back to the pump. If it wasn't so damned hot out it would have been even easier.

One place I got lazy was the power wire for the pump, I ran it under the car. In the future Ill probably run that inside. I did at least cover it in snakeskin for mechanical protection. I also may have to drop the tank and replace the seal. Im going to put it on a hill and let all the gas run to the front and see whats up.

[Formulajones]

If you were on a 1/4 mile track I feel your gains likely would have multiplied as you went down track.

Thanks for updating.

I'm kind of leaning towards getting away from the pure stock theme on my bird and updating the fuel system. I think I've gone as fast as I can go with the stock fuel system. I'll likely do a Tanks Inc setup and 1/2" lines, that'll give it room to grow in the future, plus I'm curious how it may help the car at the track. May try to get that done before the November race.

[scott70]

At 87 mph...you've definitely got enough power to run 7's.

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

If you were on a 1/4 mile track I feel your gains likely would have multiplied as you went down track.

Thanks for updating.

I'm kind of leaning towards getting away from the pure stock theme on my bird and updating the fuel system. I think I've gone as fast as I can go with the stock fuel system. I'll likely do a Tanks Inc setup and 1/2" lines, that'll give it room to grow in the future, plus I'm curious how it may help the car at the track. May try to get that done before the November race.

Ive wondered the same thing with the 3.08s. Would my second half of the track be a little better than my first?

If I were to have built the rear from scratch I would have bought 3.23s, but my core came with 3.08s. Didn't seem worth the money to jump one notch. Plus, I drove 75 mph down the highway too and from the track under 3000 RPM.

Another note, because I don't have a rev limiter, I shift fairly early to be safe. On the dyno we know my motor makes power up to 58-5900, but Ive been shifting at more like 5200. If I were to ring it all the way out, there might be a little more left still. Even these runs were a little harder on it, I ran a full MPH faster than I had before. Im also still a novice with real race tires. I have a total of maybe 7 passes with drag radials.

Ill do the 1/4 Injun Wars event @ Indy, other than that I will probably wait for a little cooler weather before I run again.

Also, Ive said it before, but another shout out to TSP converters. Mine is awesome.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme

Ive wondered the same thing with the 3.08s. Would my second half of the track be a little better than my first?

If I were to have built the rear from scratch I would have bought 3.23s, but my core came with 3.08s. Didn't seem worth the money to jump one notch. Plus, I drove 75 mph down the highway too and from the track under 3000 RPM.

Another note, because I don't have a rev limiter, I shift fairly early to be safe. On the dyno we know my motor makes power up to 58-5900, but Ive been shifting at more like 5200. If I were to ring it all the way out, there might be a little more left still. Even these runs were a little harder on it, I ran a full MPH faster than I had before. Im also still a novice with real race tires. I have a total of maybe 7 passes with drag radials.

Ill do the 1/4 Injun Wars event @ Indy, other than that I will probably wait for a little cooler weather before I run again.

Also, Ive said it before, but another shout out to TSP converters. Mine is awesome.

From my experience....yes. When running those numerically low gears, you spend so much more time in each gear to reach peak rpm shift points, it's a real strain on the fuel system. If the fuel system is marginal, it'll show up in a car with 3.08's before it'll show up in a car with 4.10's.

I do like the TSP converters. I put one in the Firebird I restored for John, and it was a very nice converter.
Swapped dad's over to TSP, since the Continental really wasn't cutting it. Had to do a restall on the TSP but this second time around it's really nice on the street, much better than before. Haven't gotten to the track with this new version but will soon.

[johnta1]

What is the stall rpm of the converter?

Also, are you still in 2 gear at finish line?

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme

Ive wondered the same thing with the 3.08s. Would my second half of the track be a little better than my first?

If I were to have built the rear from scratch I would have bought 3.23s, but my core came with 3.08s. Didn't seem worth the money to jump one notch. Plus, I drove 75 mph down the highway too and from the track under 3000 RPM.

Another note, because I don't have a rev limiter, I shift fairly early to be safe. On the dyno we know my motor makes power up to 58-5900, but Ive been shifting at more like 5200. If I were to ring it all the way out, there might be a little more left still. Even these runs were a little harder on it, I ran a full MPH faster than I had before. Im also still a novice with real race tires. I have a total of maybe 7 passes with drag radials.

Ill do the 1/4 Injun Wars event @ Indy, other than that I will probably wait for a little cooler weather before I run again.

Also, Ive said it before, but another shout out to TSP converters. Mine is awesome.

Can you post a dyno sheet or if you have posted one a link to that thread?

Stan

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Can you post a dyno sheet or if you have posted one a link to that thread?

Stan

There is a thread from me circa like 2016 or 17 with dyno numbers. Its kinda clunky to find on the search function, but I think I have it saved to favorites on my personal computer. Im leaving work now, Ill look it up from home in a couple hours if someone doesn't beat me to it.


The numbers were a best of 579HP and something like 590 FtLbs with a 2" spacer and a 1050 dominator house carb.


With no spacer and custom 850 Qjet, full exhaust, accessories and all I figure Im probably more like 540-550 HP.

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Can you post a dyno sheet or if you have posted one a link to that thread?

Stan

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...highlight=Dyno

Dyno sheet thread. Cam info is a few posts down.


As for the exhaust, its Dougs longtubes for a roundport, down to 3" tubes all the way back with an X pipe. Magnaflow mufflers. This probably is a place im giving up a little power as its a common exhaust shop system. Its got a couple crush bends. I would like to redo the portion before the X's to have mandrel bends and maybe the gradual neck down header reducers. Once you get towards the back it probably doesnt matter much.


Traction is a little bit of both I guess. Hooking and spinning. Some of that is driver error im sure. Im new to the world of sticky tires. I made 5 runs on Friday, two 1.8s and three 2.0 60's. Some where i clearly heard or felt the tires come loose. Again, it was quite hot, and Im not 100% sure what PSI I should have the tires or how long to spend in the burnout box. So I dont know how good of info I can give there.

I would like to see 1.7 60's but the conditions werent optimal at all. Plus I have the 3.08s with a standard first gear th400. Its never going to pull the wheels off the ground.

I probably could launch a little harder? One of the last places on the car I havent strengthened is the yoke on the 8.5. Its still a 1310, though it does have a nice Spicer solid joint. When Im foot braking the converter I have visions to annihilating that U joint.

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme

Ive wondered the same thing with the 3.08s. Would my second half of the track be a little better than my first?

If I were to have built the rear from scratch I would have bought 3.23s, but my core came with 3.08s. Didn't seem worth the money to jump one notch. Plus, I drove 75 mph down the highway too and from the track under 3000 RPM.

Another note, because I don't have a rev limiter, I shift fairly early to be safe. On the dyno we know my motor makes power up to 58-5900, but Ive been shifting at more like 5200. If I were to ring it all the way out, there might be a little more left still. Even these runs were a little harder on it, I ran a full MPH faster than I had before. Im also still a novice with real race tires. I have a total of maybe 7 passes with drag radials.

Ill do the 1/4 Injun Wars event @ Indy, other than that I will probably wait for a little cooler weather before I run again.

Also, Ive said it before, but another shout out to TSP converters. Mine is awesome.

You need to get a rev limiter. Based on your dyno sheet the min RPM I would shift at is 6200. Leaving a lot of et on the table.

Stan

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

You need to get a rev limiter. Based on your dyno sheet the min RPM I would shift at is 6200. Leaving a lot of et on the table.

Stan

Yeah, I knew I was leaving some on the table. I think I would need to switch oil pans before I felt comfortable shifting at 6200. I have the a stock looking (I think Canton) pan that has more modern baffles. But nothing else, no kickout, no scraper or windage tray.

Looking back, knowing a little more now than I did then, that's one big regret I have. Skimping on oiling. So maybe that's a winter project. Pull it out for a day and put a better pan on.

The only reason I haven't added an MSD box is Im using a now defunct Accel Billet distributor. Which works great, but the directions for adding a CD box didn't make sense. The directions with the accel unit seemed to denote some wire colors that didn't match. Im sure I can figure it out, need to just bite the bullet and buy one.


Cliff I know I can add some effort in the suspension. Which it should be noted hasn't been completely ignored. I don't have a ton of clapped out 50 year old components. The springs all the way around are new, if stock replacement type units. I did ditch the mono leafs for multi in the rear. The front springs are the ones Moog labled as the HD springs that came in RA II cars.


The wheels are now lightweight Race Star Darkstars. MT Et Street SSs in the back. 275/50s to keep the height down with the highway gear. The front shocks are nice Bilsteins. The rears are cheapy KYBs. That is one place Ill probably put in adjustable drag shocks in the back.

I have bolt in subframe connectors, but I think Im going to weld them in the front. Added a couple clamps on the rear leafs. I did put some tack welds on the axle tubes too. Not the prettiest but they are there. Ive had more practice and am a little better with the mig gun now.

My frist priorities are probably in the safety dept. I need to get a CD box for the rev limit function, and I need to upgrade that rear U joint to a 1350.