[gto4evr]

you won't have to cut the hood at all for the 68 pan, the relief cut is for mounting the 69 door flapper and you won't have that with the 68 setup. One thing you MAY have to cut is if you've got an early revision of a 68 hood that has bracing that comes down the back side of the hood scoops. (so if you open your scoop, you'd see a 2" wide flap of metal in the way) That was only on the earlier 68 hood scoops that had the third mounting stud used. Here's a picture with one of those with the bracket area that went to the upper hood scoop area cut out. Since it's a 69, if it has the original hood or any late 68-70 hood on it, this won't be an issue either for you.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by gto4evr

you won't have to cut the hood at all for the 68 pan, the relief cut is for mounting the 69 door flapper and you won't have that with the 68 setup. One thing you MAY have to cut is if you've got an early revision of a 68 hood that has bracing that comes down the back side of the hood scoops. (so if you open your scoop, you'd see a 2" wide flap of metal in the way) That was only on the earlier 68 hood scoops that had the third mounting stud used. Here's a picture with one of those with the bracket area that went to the upper hood scoop area cut out. Since it's a 69, if it has the original hood or any late 68-70 hood on it, this won't be an issue either for you.

Sorry for all the duplicate posts I made. Excuse me for being new. I don't know how it happened and I had to ask a moderator to delete them for me.

This is good news to me. Sounds like I won't have to cut anything. I'm pretty sure it's an original hood on the car.

Another question.
Would it make sense for me to consider the cheaper fiberglass version of the '68 hood pan? Not original looking but that doesn't matter to me if the part fits decently.

Here's the car as it sits now in the seller's garage:

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Originally Posted by roger1

Another question.
Would it make sense for me to consider the cheaper fiberglass version of the '68 hood pan? Not original looking but that doesn't matter to me if the part fits decently.

If the price is substantial. I haven't seen the prices in a long time.
Since you just need cold air induction for MPFI mainly , the fiberglass pans seem like a good option.

For a heads up on the hood scoops -
it used to be said that the metal repop scoops will only fit properly on a repop hood.
Not good fits to original hoods.

The fiberglass R/A scoops fit well with original hoods, but you have to have the 69-70 flapper assembly to mount those scoops.
**except maybe epoxy or attachment tape

Factory 68 R/A cars were shipped with "base equipment" breathers installed.
Owners were advised to swap back to the base equipment breathers during weather conditions.
So i guess a real savvy owner would keep a breather boxed up in the trunk for rainy days.
If you plug off the open scoops with a sponge or foam rubber inserts, without swapping lower pans - the 68 system has no way to get any air.

69-70 had provision for underhood air when scoops closed.
Thats part of why that system is so complex.

just heads-up info

[roger1]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

If the price is substantial. I haven't seen the prices in a long time.
Since you just need cold air induction for MPFI mainly , the fiberglass pans seem like a good option.
For a heads up on the hood scoops -
it used to be said that the metal repop scoops will only fit properly on a repop hood.
Not good fits to original hoods.
The fiberglass R/A scoops fit well with original hoods, but you have to have the 69-70 flapper assembly to mount those scoops.
**except maybe epoxy or attachment tape
Factory 68 R/A cars were shipped with "base equipment" breathers installed.
Owners were advised to swap back to the base equipment breathers during weather conditions.
So i guess a real savvy owner would keep a breather boxed up in the trunk for rainy days.
If you plug off the open scoops with a sponge or foam rubber inserts, without swapping lower pans - the 68 system has no way to get any air.
69-70 had provision for underhood air when scoops closed.
Thats part of why that system is so complex.
just heads-up info

Thanks for all the great info here. Since Brian has a used 68 setup he will sell me, I'll do that vs the fiberglass one.

I really did think about going for a correct RA setup but I just like the looks and simplicity of the '68 better. As far as getting caught in the rain, it seems like a couple of small holes drilled in the bottom of the car pan would help along with using an air filter like a K&N that doesn't get damaged if it gets a little wet.
Could even plug the holes and only pull the plugs when it appears rain is inevitable.

[PurelyGTO68]

Originally Posted by roger1

Thanks for all the great info here. Since Brian has a used 68 setup he will sell me, I'll do that vs the fiberglass one.

I really did think about going for a correct RA setup but I just like the looks and simplicity of the '68 better. As far as getting caught in the rain, it seems like a couple of small holes drilled in the bottom of the car pan would help along with using an air filter like a K&N that doesn't get damaged if it gets a little wet.
Could even plug the holes and only pull the plugs when it appears rain is inevitable.

The lower pan has drain holes already so you are good.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

I'd have a generic lightweight air cleaner and a pair of closed scoops in a box, with the few needed tools inside of it.
Mr.Cool Kit for the Cool factor to impress the other cool kids.
Might would even use it too

Did anybody notice Greg has a Hemi BigBlock DOHC heater core/box ?
Engineering Car ?
DAMN !
D A M N

[roger1]

Originally Posted by PurelyGTO68

The lower pan has drain holes already so you are good.

Thanks. Sounds like a filter like the K&N would be all I would need to do. Any rain that sucked through the filter would probably make the engine run better! Can't really see enough getting through to harm anything.

Since I'm planning to do a body-off restoration on the car, getting caught in the rain would be something I would try pretty hard to avoid. I might consider car shows in other towns up to 200 miles from me and there's always a possibility of an unexpected storm.

[PurelyGTO68]

Originally Posted by roger1

Thanks. Sounds like a filter like the K&N would be all I would need to do. Any rain that sucked through the filter would probably make the engine run better! Can't really see enough getting through to harm anything.

Since I'm planning to do a body-off restoration on the car, getting caught in the rain would be something I would try pretty hard to avoid. I might consider car shows in other towns up to 200 miles from me and there's always a possibility of an unexpected storm.

I dont know if my car would make it to a car show 200 miles away. Those 4.33 gears out back sure like consuming fuel. I just do short drives right now and still have to fill up frequently. 100 octane isn't that easy to get out here either. I envy those of you that can actually take your cars out cruising.