[gto4evr]

Originally Posted by roger1

I'm confused here.

The photos of the original and reproduction parts make them look exactly the same to me. The photos are taken upside down from each other.

I agree, the pans look the same to me. the picture I posted from the catalog is from the top, and the picture of that original on the hood is from the bottom

is it possible Purely that you just have the pan mounted too far forward therefore requiring the cut? did the 3 holes I referred to line up with the hood insulation holes?

My friend should have his car at the cruise tonight for me to check. I'll get some pictures. Not sure where he got the pan from. it's made of metal but I don't know if there's more than one supplier of the repops. I don't think he got it from Ames or PP.

[PurelyGTO68]

Originally Posted by gto4evr

I agree, the pans look the same to me. the picture I posted from the catalog is from the top, and the picture of that original on the hood is from the bottom

is it possible Purely that you just have the pan mounted too far forward therefore requiring the cut? did the 3 holes I referred to line up with the hood insulation holes?

My friend should have his car at the cruise tonight for me to check. I'll get some pictures. Not sure where he got the pan from. it's made of metal but I don't know if there's more than one supplier of the repops. I don't think he got it from Ames or PP.

Funny you ask because the original placement was too far forward. I located it in the correct spot when I cut the bracing on the replacement hood. The straight edge along the cowl has some steps bent into the upper pan. Those steps nest perfectly with the contour of the hood and the two rear holes line up perfectly. The most forward hole at the peak of the pan also lines up with a predrilled hole in the hood.

Lastly, the food scoop stud nuts are accessible via access holes in the pan when properly located. The literature that came with the car at delivery suggested the owner remove the open scoops and reinstall the original closed scoops in inclement weather. So the access holes allow this without removing the upper pan. The lower pan would be removed and replaced with the chrome lid single snorkel air cleaner as well. I am sure nobody ever did this though.....they probably just didnt drive the car in bad weather.

The 69/70 set up is much more convenient for the driver to operate.

[Formulajones]

Just for interest, Dad's 69 original had the OEM ram air setup on it. When he switched over to a fiberglass stock appearing hood on his 69, he wanted the scoops functional again, so I built a custom cold air intake using the stock scoops.

It is actually more like the 68 setup as far as basic function goes, but I used 69 L88 parts. The air box had 2 protrusions that actually lined up with the scoops on the GTO hood, so I turned it around 180 degrees and molded that in. I set the depth to accept a 3" filter inside the hood. It comes down to seal against an L88 drop base with seal and screen. I also added a hole and hose at the back of the air box for water drainage. The only way for air to enter the engine is through the scoops, there is no changing it around for inclement weather. We've been caught in a couple downpours, not by choice. But even in rain so hard you could barely see to drive, it never introduced water to the carb and worked fine.
Another interesting piece of info, it seems to do a pretty good job introducing outside air at speed as well. Now with the Sniper Stealth installed I can monitor IAT's. It'll heat soak well over 120 degrees while stopped pumping gas, but as soon as you move a mile or 2 down the road the IAT's will come right down to outside ambient temp readings. It at least gives me the sense it's effective and working.
I actually like this setup (and the 68 version) better than the original 69 setup he used to run. It's much less complicated, and cleaner in appearance.