['ol Pinion head]

Keep on plugging away @ it Dennis. The broken speedo situation reminds me of a black 71 HO M22 GTO that I owned years ago, the speedo cable casing was partially melted in one spot by its cheesy muffler shop bent header back exhaust.

[SD455DJ]

Originally Posted by 'ol Pinion head

Keep on plugging away @ it Dennis. The broken speedo situation reminds me of a black 71 HO M22 GTO that I owned years ago, the speedo cable casing was partially melted in one spot by its cheesy muffler shop bent header back exhaust.

Will do Roger. These cars are therapy for me from my regular day job. I've got 5 more years of that before I retire (40 years next May!), so this helps me deal with the stress of the everyday grind and hassles (don't get me wrong, there are many good days too).

Wow, a 455HO/M22 '71 black GTO is a pretty special car. I wish the A/C on this GT-37 was the M22 4-speed instead, but I understand why is was an important option with the original owner living in Del Rio, TX way down south on the Mexican border. It was delivered to Monroe Motor Company at 500 Avenue F (Dealer Code 322 250). Apparently, the OO still lives in Del Rio.

Dennis

['ol Pinion head]

That's cool. Lot of flyboys drove hot Pontiacs & areas around fighter training bases used to be fertile ground for finding cool Pontiac muscle cars. Laughlin was definitely in that bunch, my dad was stationed out of Laughlin in late '53- mid 55.

[SD455DJ]

Is Laughlin still an active base?

Dennis

[OCMDGTO]

Dennis, is there any trick to getting the inner fender out? I need to change a heater core on mine and took all the bolts I could see out and it wouldn't budge.

[pggto]

Originally Posted by OCMDGTO

Dennis, is there any trick to getting the inner fender out? I need to change a heater core on mine and took all the bolts I could see out and it wouldn't budge.

I just did the heater core on my 71 GTO non AC car. I had to remove the rocker molding, the lower fender bolts, the inner fender well to fender bolts in the front of the wheel well (there's a bracket that attaches the two), the washer fluid jug, and all the inner fender bolts. Then you have to pull the lower fender outward and rotate and flex the inner to clear the upper A arm. At least that's what I did to get mine out, I wasn't to worried about scratching the inner on this car.

The heater core comes out from the inside of the car attached to the inner heater box, so you need to remove the inner glove box and disconnect all the cables and wires before you remove the box. The core is held in with a couple of spring clips.

Don't forget to replace the blower motor while your in there and clean out any mouse nests. Which is why mine had to come apart.

[SD455DJ]

OCMDGTO, Yep, just like pggto said, just remove all the bolts that attach the inner fender AND the 2 bottom fender bolts. I was able to remove my fender well with the rocker molding on, but was very careful not to bend it when I pulled the lower fender out an inch and with tugging/twisting the fender well to make it drop out. Just go slowly...you may want to remove the rocker molding just to be on the safe side.

Dennis

[SD455DJ]

We are waiting for some original parts to arrive, so progress has slowed a bit, but in the meantime we glass-beaded the rusty clutch/brake pedals and mounting brackets along with the steering column collar that attached to the firewall. We are replacing the parking brake mechanism with a repop from Ames that isn't 100% correct, but looks much better than the rusty original. The under-dash area is starting to look pretty nice...unfortunately most people will never see that, but it's nice knowing it is mostly rust free now and protected.

Dennis

[SD455DJ]

While we were working on the interior of the GT-37, we had to rehang the loose master cylinder/booster that was starting to slip from it's wire hanger a bit and noticed the machined pad on the front of the master cylinder had what looked like a stamp impression showing the surface rust and dirt. We cleaned it off a saw 'EB' and the number '2' stamped in the machined pad.

Is this the original master cylinder? We both aren't really up on all the factory stamps/codes on non-engine parts.

Dennis

[SD455DJ]

We installed the refurbished (restored seems too strong a description) gas pedal, brake/clutch pedal assembly, the new front speaker, defroster duct, and assembled (newer) dash board back in the GT-37. We also installed the forward harness (original '71) and engine harness (new M&H). It was a puzzle reconnecting all the wiring and vacuum lines under the dash, but the assembly manual and lots of disassembly pictures helped, not to mention Dan's familiarity with the A-body underdash! The original rear seat speaker and remote trunk release wires were still present and intact, so are now reconnected in the harness.

Working on the steering column next.