[AG]

4.5° of caster is good, you will have a strong centering response with that.

[HWYSTR455]

It's good, I drove it like that for years, but the steering wheel wouldn't return coming out of a turn. With the 670 box in there now, it's even a little worse. And the 670 box with a type 2 pump takes more muscle too. I can live with it though.

Pretty sure I can get around 5.5, maybe even 6 with the offset shafts. Not sure I will like that, but I will see.

I did get the second fan controller mounted, it's on the core support and the batt and batt tray hide it all.

Need to pull the rad to split the wires for the fan feeds, that will take me a couple hours, prob do that tomorrow after work.

I should have the alt back Thurs or Fri, and am upgrading/consolidating a few grounds. Going to run a dedicated 2g from batt to frame, up from a 4g, and going to go 4g from frame to block. (up from a 6g). Going to run a 6g from the block to the back of the case of the alt, too.

Pic of the controller add...


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[HWYSTR455]

If anyone is curious, here is a good wire gauge/amp/feet length volt drop calculator:

https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html

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[Oldsboy20]

I just found your build thread, I had a question. Do you use Dupli-Color Ceramic Ford Semi-Gloss Black Engine Paint? And do you use a dupli color primer before applying the black paint? Thanks

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Oldsboy20

I just found your build thread, I had a question. Do you use Dupli-Color Ceramic Ford Semi-Gloss Black Engine Paint? And do you use a dupli color primer before applying the black paint? Thanks

Yes. I use the ford semi on all chassis, pulleys, and those type parts, the 1615 aluminum for intakes, ALTs, and other natural aluminum stuff, and the cast iron one for items like tie rods, centerlink, steering boxes, diff center sections, and so on.

On the castle nuts on suspension and steering, as well as other natural hardware, use the semi-gloss clear after torque so they don't rust. I also hit ARP head studs/nuts/bolts after torque, they too can flash rust. Wiper motor bolts, anodized oil pans, etc.

No primer, I've found that the engine paint doesn't 'bite' as well and can flake on primer. I just make sure it's clean, wipe with acetone, and the typical 3 coats as directed of the engine paint. Lasts forever, and easily can touch it up. I blends well too, you don't have to shoot a whole part or area, just the areas you need.

My one old timer body guys says : 'Yeah, that stuff will stick to anything'.

I did the aerosol truck bedliner too, underside, wheel wells, inside of bumper, it lasts a ling time and doesn't get eaten up by rock shots.

EDIT: After the engine paint cures well, you can polish and wax it.

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[HWYSTR455]

Got the alt back from PowerMaster, can't praise them enough, the service was incredible. Thank you John is 'returns/tech'.

Put another 200 or so miles on it, the tune is almost complete, just have some shifting programming left, need to soften the 1-2 shift at low throttle.

Ordered the GW control arms with the offset shafts, shafts are getting anodized, they should ship by end of week.

With the GTO endura bumper, the added weight pushed the front springs over the top, and it's sitting too low, and springs are too soft. Ordered some springs from GW when I ordered the upper control arms, but the springs are backlogged to DEC/JAN. Dang. So I ordered some 1/2" pad spacers, which will not only get it off the ground, but also slightly increase the spring rate. I will use those temp until I get the new springs.

Luckily, the springs that are coming out are the exact ones I need for the 442 when I go to the big block, works out for me.

Went back & forth on the trunk tension rods for cars with the wing, have had people debate if it uses a larger diameter rod or not. I couldn't find any larger diameter rods, so I got a aircraft quick release locking pin, and a biker wallet chain, drilled a hole thru the support and trunk arm, and that worked out to my liking. (couple pics)

Still have some minor stuff to do, detailing too, but an enjoying driving it now, so kinda not in too much of a hurry to do stuff!

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[HWYSTR455]

So had a Moser 12 bolt built for me a few years ago, TruTrac, shortened housing 1/2" on each side, tapered bearings, 373 gears, and alloy axles.

So driving around, started getting some posi-burps around slow turns, and was like, what? No. Really!?! And started thinking to myself, 'What was the ONE thing you didn't go through on this build?' . Yup. The rear.

So then I started thinking, nah, that thing's kind a fresh, it should be good! And then started back-tracking mentally on just how long about I got the rear. Uh. Wow, looks like it might be, um, 2003? 2004? Dang.

Guess I will be rebuilding the rear, like I don't have 50 other projects I need to get done! Heheh!

So grabbed a 20 ton press from harbor freight, sold my old one due to space constraints, cheaper to buy a press than to farm that crap out.

Will get the RaTech pinion depth tool, the RaTech crush sleeve eliminator setup (smart sleeve), and just rebuild that thing. Dam. Really hadn't planned for this, but guess that's the way a hot rodder's life goes!

http://www.ratechmfg.com/pinion%20setting%20tool.htm

http://www.ratechmfg.com/smart%20sleeve.htm

Still need to swap the upper control arms and front springs, charge AC, and a bunch of little stuff, but at least I'm driving it!

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[Bob Timmermans]

"With the GTO endura bumper, the added weight pushed the front springs over the top, and it's sitting too low, and springs are too soft. Ordered some springs from GW when I ordered the upper control arms, but the springs are backlogged to DEC/JAN. Dang. So I ordered some 1/2" pad spacers, which will not only get it off the ground, but also slightly increase the spring rate. I will use those temp until I get the new springs. "

I'm curious about what springrate you'll end up with.
I've got QA-1's up to 650 lbs./inch.
550's screwed all the way up to the end , just about broke the bumpstop loose 1/4"

I read that you're rebuilding the Moser build rear and I kinda agree with OCMDGTO on that.
These are purpose build rears and you pay for that.
They should last , especially with street rubber.