[Mike Davis]

In the second picture it looks like the rod on the far right is installed with the radius side to the inside not facing the crank side. And the same with the rod on the left closest to the thrust cap in the first pic. May just be the picture.

[wbnapier]

Originally Posted by Mike Davis

In the second picture it looks like the rod on the far right is installed with the radius side to the inside not facing the crank side. And the same with the rod on the left closest to the thrust cap in the first pic. May just be the picture.

I see that too... I hope it is just the photo angle. I can't imagine messing that up, but I can't rule it out without the block here to verify. There was a clear offset, big vs. small, on the crank end of the rods and yes one end faced the crank and the other the abutting connecting rod.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Mike Davis

In the second picture it looks like the rod on the far right is installed with the radius side to the inside not facing the crank side. And the same with the rod on the left closest to the thrust cap in the first pic. May just be the picture.

Originally Posted by wbnapier

I see that too...

Bunch of after market rods are made like that. And the wide side/narrow side isn't consistant in a set of rods. Looks wrong when they're installed right.

Been talked about before on here
Clay

[Mike Davis]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Bunch of after market rods are made like that. And the wide side/narrow side isn't consistant in a set of rods. Looks wrong when they're installed right.

Been talked about before on here
Clay

Yes I realize that, I have probably installed over 100 sets of aftermarket rods.
But these pics still don't look right.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by wbnapier

I see that too... I hope it is just the photo angle. I can't imagine messing that up, but I can't rule it out without the block here to verify. There was a clear offset, big vs. small, on the crank end of the rods and yes one end faced the crank and the other the abutting connecting rod.

Me 3 but hard to say without seeing the machined face of the rod. Chamfer side towards fillet, flat side towards rod on shared journal always.

[llwta76]

Originally Posted by wbnapier

I see that too... I hope it is just the photo angle. I can't imagine messing that up, but I can't rule it out without the block here to verify. There was a clear offset, big vs. small, on the crank end of the rods and yes one end faced the crank and the other the abutting connecting rod.

Just curious... after installing the rotating assembly what kind of torque reading did you get when spinning it ? Did you use oil or assembly lube for the bearings, etc? Larry

[wbnapier]

Yes, I used assembly lube. The machinist gave me a little tin of red and a little tin of yellow. He gave me instructions on which to use for wrist pins, rods, and mains. I also had a can of redline, and two lubes (one dry and one wet) from Total Seal for pistons and bore. The dry stuff for the bores was cool. The wrist pins used double spiro-lox on each side. I cut my hands to pieces, but it was easy assembling them. My 10-yeard old daughter had to stand there and hand me bandaid after bandaid in the kitchen.

I also drissled some break in oil down the crank and counterweigths. The engine was primed twice, once as an assembled long block and again in the car. I had a mechanical oil gauge hooked up.

Yes to the beam torque wrench on the crank. I don't remember the rotational torque needed to spin, but it was good. From memory of the feel, 18-22 ft.lbs. The whole assembly rotated beautifuly in the shortblock with the one-piece RMS in.

As a postive side note, the engine didn't leak a drop of oil or coolant.

[wbnapier]

Hot, soapy water. Acetone, mineral spirits, etc... I had one of those engine brush cleaning kits, Maybe a missed something. We'll find out.

The first oil filter was really clean after initial start and the second oil filter was pretty clean after failure.

[hgerhardt]

And none of the recent posts address the rotated/spun main bearing that we already know of. My guess is he installed that bearing with the oil hole down which caused that bearing to run dry and seize. With only light load, the rod bearings could have been OK since the rods share common crank pins and would have gotten some oil from the mains that did get oil.

[mrennie]

Originally Posted by hgerhardt

And none of the recent posts address the rotated/spun main bearing that we already know of. My guess is he installed that bearing with the oil hole down which caused that bearing to run dry and seize. With only light load, the rod bearings could have been OK since the rods share common crank pins and would have gotten some oil from the mains that did get oil.

Depends what brand of bearings...the last set of Clevites I bought came with a thrust bearing with 2x upper shells (with holes and grooves), rather than one with a hole and groove and one plain with no hole/groove. Apparently this was a change to simplify production and packaging.