[OG68]

Baltimore was also known to stamp the VIN on the passenger side rail or not at all.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by OG68

Baltimore was also known to stamp the VIN on the passenger side rail or not at all.

Good to know, thanks.
I've looked pretty hard and not found one and the rust on top of the frame isn't that heavy. I'll look again after I blast it but have a feeling mine is one that didn't get stamped. The manufacturer of my frame was Parish and their markings on the side of the rear frame rail are pretty easy to see.

[OG68]

Originally Posted by roger1

Good to know, thanks.
I've looked pretty hard and not found one and the rust on top of the frame isn't that heavy. I'll look again after I blast it but have a feeling mine is one that didn't get stamped. The manufacturer of my frame was Parish and their markings on the side of the rear frame rail are pretty easy to see.

Some other frame locations the VIN has been found is the upper frame area under the drivers door. Mostly El Caminos, but they have a boxed in frame too.

[roger1]

Things done since the last update:

1. Finished using wire wheel the top and sides of the frame, turned the frame over and finished the bottom as well. Ground off factory welding spatter on several places around the frame with a Roloc disc. It is ready for blasting.
2. Finished with the wire wheel on the rear axle. It is ready for blasting as well.
3. Removed the ball joints and bushings on the front control arms and all the bushings on the rear control arms.
4. Wire wheeled and scraped all the under coating off all the control arms. All are ready for blasting.
5. Cleaned up the mess!

[roger1]

Today I mostly cleaned up the shop and organized parts.
I decided to remove the axle bearings from the axles that I had on the floor. It was the last thing I hadn't dismantled.

Not good news. At some point in the past life of this car, the d/s axle bearing had seized and it scored the axle. The bearing was replaced anyway. Once I split and removed the retaining ring, the bearing was loose on the axle. It also appears to me that this got very hot when that bearing failed.
You can see the smaller diameter on the axle where the bearing sits. Strange looking pits too:





Pretty sure that even though the bearing hadn't failed on the p/s axle, the owner at the time decided to replace that bearing too. It was an identical part. The mechanic didn't do a great job as you can see the mark he made right in front of where the seal rides:



This axle is Ok to use though. But I can't in good conscience
use the other that had the seized bearing. I'd appreciate some advice here.
Look for a used original or buy a new aftermarket axle? Or replace both with new aftermarket axles? In all the cars I've had I've never had to replace an axle before so this is new territory for me.

[roger1]

I just ordered a set of the Yukon axles that are 1541H Alloy.
Now I'm trying deciding on where to buy the rest of the parts I need for the rear.

I'm now thinking about going with 3.55 gears instead of using the stock 3.23. I think it will be a little bit better of a match with what my plans are.
I've already have a new Lunati 60902 cam and lifters that the seller gave me. I like the specs on this cam. SPECS
My tire diameter should be 27.5" and I'm planning on a 200-4R automatic and an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 mpfi setup.
I calculate that a 3.55 rear would yield just a touch over 2,000 rpm at 70 mph. The 2.74 first gear would also give a 9.73 torque multiplication which I think would be good using a normal converter rather than a high stall.

I am also going to order an Auburn Gear posi carrier for it. I've had good luck with them. I'm also going try and find new Timken bearings for the pinion, carrier and axle bearings.

[north]

Another plus of going with 3.55’s is the availability of limited slip units. 3.23 units are not offered so you’d have to find a used unit

[will slow gto]

Originally Posted by roger1

I just ordered a set of the Yukon axles that are 1541H Alloy.
Now I'm trying deciding on where to buy the rest of the parts I need for the rear.

I'm now thinking about going with 3.55 gears instead of using the stock 3.23. I think it will be a little bit better of a match with what my plans are.
I've already have a new Lunati 60902 cam and lifters that the seller gave me. I like the specs on this cam. SPECS
My tire diameter should be 27.5" and I'm planning on a 200-4R automatic and an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 mpfi setup.
I calculate that a 3.55 rear would yield just a touch over 2,000 rpm at 70 mph. The 2.74 first gear would also give a 9.73 torque multiplication which I think would be good using a normal converter rather than a high stall.

I am also going to order an Auburn Gear posi carrier for it. I've had good luck with them. I'm also going try and find new Timken bearings for the pinion, carrier and axle bearings.

If you don’t have a good differential shop in town or if you have questions, I’m sure Jim Mitschke -JD Race/monzaz can point you in the right direction. Those last two are his shop name and PY Forums user name. He has an eBay store too. Also there’s Ol Pinion Head on here, he knows more about these rears than just about anyone. Search for him here on PY Forums.