[sprintbird]

Rubber brake line gone bad? They do that sometimes and don’t allow the brake fluid to return. Acts as a check valve.

[mgarblik]

IMO, you have to take a systematic approach to this diagnosis. You have a temp gun, so you are used to this. First thing I would do is switch the drums right to left and adjust. Do nothing else and drive it. If the problem moves with the drum, the drum is the problem. If the problem stays with the right side of the car, it must be the shoes, springs, wheel cylinder or flex hose. Nothing else in there. Most likely is the flex hose as mentioned above, replace it first, then possibly a wheel cylinder piston sticking in it's bore would be second, followed by a shoe/spring problem. Good luck with it and report back.

[61 389-348]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

IMO, you have to take a systematic approach to this diagnosis. You have a temp gun, so you are used to this. First thing I would do is switch the drums right to left and adjust. Do nothing else and drive it. If the problem moves with the drum, the drum is the problem. If the problem stays with the right side of the car, it must be the shoes, springs, wheel cylinder or flex hose. Nothing else in there. Most likely is the flex hose as mentioned above, replace it first, then possibly a wheel cylinder piston sticking in it's bore would be second, followed by a shoe/spring problem. Good luck with it and report back.

I'm leaving now to take the previous John Piotrowski hubs in to have them turned, and then freshen them up a bit so I have them to put back on and stay on.

They were amazingly well balanced from side to side for years with only a few degrees difference. When I have these back to use if needed, then I'm going to switch sides with what's on there to see if the problem moves sides or stays where it is. Nothing else I can really do until I can experiment and isolate the issue a bit.

It would be a hell of a coincidence if the brake line just happened to fail at the time I switch out for the 'new' hubs.

[61 389-348]

Originally Posted by sprintbird

Rubber brake line gone bad? They do that sometimes and don’t allow the brake fluid to return. Acts as a check valve.

I did a thorough brake job three years ago, also doing cylinders and lines. I'm going to order the same today so I can do it again.

I drove it again very easily for a while last night. Pulls to the right with brakes, but otherwise drives straight. Got home and left side was 151 degrees and right was 255. Thinking the same thing as you, I jacked the car up immediately and tried to turn the right wheel. It turned fine. Same thing while I'm driving, it pulls to the right with the brakes, but I release the brake and it drives straight.

I'm going to take the John Piotrowski hubs and have them turned for the first time to see if I can get the minor thump out of them. Then put the right side one back on again. Except for the mild thump, they've been fine all of these years and are balanced side to side.

I checked temp on both sides before I put the 'new' hubs on and was 151 and 152 so zero pulling. Put these 'new' hubs on and it was 181 and 300 degrees. 300 degrees is a BIG problem for as easily as I was driving.

I used the seller's new inner bearings and only repacked them so at first I thought it was a bad inner bearing. I've now replaced and repacked the inner bearings two more times.

I changed nothing else other than hubs with new inner and outer bearings.

Why can't things be simple once in a while??????

[cheese country GP]

Your brake adjustment is too tight. Adjusting 8 lug drums is done differently than the typical 5 bolt hubs. Spin the wheel till it drags, then back off 10-12 clicks. The aluminum hubs swell with heat & if they are adjusted too tight the drum will heat up & the car will pull to that side. I had the same problem with my '62 GP & this system stopped that problem.

[61 389-348]

Originally Posted by cheese country GP

Your brake adjustment is too tight. Adjusting 8 lug drums is done differently than the typical 5 bolt hubs. Spin the wheel till it drags, then back off 10-12 clicks. The aluminum hubs swell with heat & if they are adjusted too tight the drum will heat up & the car will pull to that side. I had the same problem with my '62 GP & this system stopped that problem.

It was adjusted very loose, pedal getting too low, loose. I was going to let the auto adjusters pull it tighter and get the pedal up a bit.

And actually, it would work the other way around. Too much heat in the aluminum drum, or any drum, would cause it to expand away from the brake shoes, hence, brake fade. I had just a bit of drag, but after driving and that drum getting that hot, no drag at all when I got home, put it up in the air and spun that wheel.