[steve25]

Is the mechcanical advance in the distributor brining in more timing with the rev’s above 1500?

If you look down into each primary throttle bore with the motor at idle do you see fuel dribbling out of the booster?

[NeighborsComplaint]

I can't explain the timing but it shouldn't even be able to run at 25 ATDC.

[markpj23]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

I can't explain the timing but it shouldn't even be able to run at 25 ATDC.

exactly my thinking... something's off

[markpj23]

Originally Posted by steve25

Is the mechcanical advance in the distributor brining in more timing with the rev’s above 1500?

Yes I can see the mechanical advance working.

Originally Posted by steve25

If you look down into each primary throttle bore with the motor at idle do you see fuel dribbling out of the booster?

No.

I note that since I've advanced the timing from where it was, it runs rougher but has more overall power. No sign of pinging.

Thinking maybe my timing light is acting up?

[Joe's Garage]

It was mentioned once, but you need to confirm that the timing mark is indeed at TDC for cylinder #1. If the mark is off, everything else is moot.

Have you tried to just turn the distributor until the timing is actually at 8* BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged?

You will probably need to turn your idle speed down if you do this, and then readjust the idle mixtures, too.

Just curious.....

[markpj23]

Originally Posted by Joe's Garage

It was mentioned once, but you need to confirm that the timing mark is indeed at TDC for cylinder #1. If the mark is off, everything else is moot.

Have you tried to just turn the distributor until the timing is actually at 8* BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged?

You will probably need to turn your idle speed down if you do this, and then readjust the idle mixtures, too.

Just curious.....

Spent some time checking to make sure the distributor rotor was in fact on #1 plug wire at TDC. Was thinking maybe the PO had everything rotated one position. All looked good however.

I did turn the distributor more and got the timing close to TDC, but the idle actually decreased rather than increased as I would have expected. Idle is noticeably rougher and car just runs like crap.

Will readjust idle mixture and see what I get.

[Joe's Garage]

You will need a helper to do this.

Remove the spark plug from cylinder #1.

Put a big socket and breaker bar (or a really long ratchet) on the crankshaft/balancer retaining bolt.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise (when viewed from the front) until the timing mark on the balancer starts coming up from below the timing marks/numbers on the timing cover. Try to stop at about 5 or 6 o'clock.

Have your helper hold his/her finger pretty firmly over the spark plug hole for #1. They will feel either suction or pressure at different points as you rotate the crankshaft. That's normal.

Keep rotating the crankshaft clockwise.

As the timing mark on the balancer rotates up, your helper should feel pressure pushing his/her finger off the spark plug hole if the cylinder is on the compression stroke.

There is a 50/50 chance this will happen the first time you come up on the marks. If there is no pressure, cylinder #1 is on the exhaust stroke. Rotate the crankshaft one complete rotation and do it again.

If you visualize the harmonic balancer as a clock, with the timing marks at about 10 o'clock, the pressure should start at around 5 o'clock as you rotate the crankshaft.

You may have to repeat this a couple times to make sure you're on the compression stroke.

When you are on the compression stroke for #1, the pressure should build up just until you get to the 0* timing mark on the timing cover. As you pass 0*, the pressure should change to suction and pull your helper's finger against the hole.

This does not mean that the pressure instantly changes to suction. Work the crankshaft up to the 0* mark and pause until the pressure bleeds off. Then keep turning the crankshaft clockwise and see if any more pressure builds up.

If the pressure continues to build after you pass the 0* mark and then starts sucking in approximately the area where you are now seeing the timing mark when the engine is running, the harmonic balancer is bad and the outer ring has slipped.

Hopefully my explanation is not too confusing......

If you're not sure your timing light is functioning right, you may want to borrow a known good light and verify. Or put your light on a known, correctly timed engine and see what is indicated.

Good luck!

[markpj23]

Originally Posted by Joe's Garage

You will need a helper to do this.

Remove the spark plug from cylinder #1.

Put a big socket and breaker bar (or a really long ratchet) on the crankshaft/balancer retaining bolt.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise (when viewed from the front) until the timing mark on the balancer starts coming up from below the timing marks/numbers on the timing cover. Try to stop at about 5 or 6 o'clock.

Have your helper hold his/her finger pretty firmly over the spark plug hole for #1. They will feel either suction or pressure at different points as you rotate the crankshaft. That's normal.

Keep rotating the crankshaft clockwise.

As the timing mark on the balancer rotates up, your helper should feel pressure pushing his/her finger off the spark plug hole if the cylinder is on the compression stroke.

There is a 50/50 chance this will happen the first time you come up on the marks. If there is no pressure, cylinder #1 is on the exhaust stroke. Rotate the crankshaft one complete rotation and do it again.

If you visualize the harmonic balancer as a clock, with the timing marks at about 10 o'clock, the pressure should start at around 5 o'clock as you rotate the crankshaft.

You may have to repeat this a couple times to make sure you're on the compression stroke.

When you are on the compression stroke for #1, the pressure should build up just until you get to the 0* timing mark on the timing cover. As you pass 0*, the pressure should change to suction and pull your helper's finger against the hole.

This does not mean that the pressure instantly changes to suction. Work the crankshaft up to the 0* mark and pause until the pressure bleeds off. Then keep turning the crankshaft clockwise and see if any more pressure builds up.

If the pressure continues to build after you pass the 0* mark and then starts sucking in approximately the area where you are now seeing the timing mark when the engine is running, the harmonic balancer is bad and the outer ring has slipped.

Hopefully my explanation is not too confusing......

If you're not sure your timing light is functioning right, you may want to borrow a known good light and verify. Or put your light on a known, correctly timed engine and see what is indicated.

Good luck!

Thanks. Am familiar with this and similar procedures. I plan to pull the valve cover and verify compression stroke.