[grivera]

Quick question regarding my frame connectors. They are the bolt-in Competition Engineering square tubing type. Mine are welded in to the front subframe and bolted in in the front of rear leaf spring pocket. Any idea what power level these bolt-in types are good for? In other words, should they be welded in at rear for my power level (521 hp/631 tq engine dyno). This will be on Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S, 235/60-15.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by grivera

Quick question regarding my frame connectors. They are the bolt-in Competition Engineering square tubing type. Mine are welded in to the front subframe and bolted in in the front of rear leaf spring pocket. Any idea what power level these bolt-in types are good for? In other words, should they be welded in at rear for my power level (521 hp/631 tq engine dyno). This will be on Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S, 235/60-15.

i have kind of the opposite of you, my PTFB connectors are welded at the rear frame rail & bolted to the front subframe, i did this in case i ever need to remove the front subframe. i will let others comment on the power level they are good to, but IMO subframe connectors arent really rated for power, they strengthen the car/frame no matter the power level... but at some point racers do weld them at the front & rear.

it comes down to how much of a race car you intend this to be, sounds like its mostly a street car & i dont think youd see any real benefit welding them at the rear too. plus it will be a hassle to ever remove the subframe for you or the next owner. with drag radials & limited track time its probably not worth it, they are doing their job as is but again all depends on how much you plan to race the car.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by 78w72

i have kind of the opposite of you, my PTFB connectors are welded at the rear frame rail & bolted to the front subframe, i did this in case i ever need to remove the front subframe. i will let others comment on the power level they are good to, but IMO subframe connectors arent really rated for power, they strengthen the car/frame no matter the power level... but at some point racers do weld them at the front & rear.

it comes down to how much of a race car you intend this to be, sounds like its mostly a street car & i dont think youd see any real benefit welding them at the rear too. plus it will be a hassle to ever remove the subframe for you or the next owner. with drag radials & limited track time its probably not worth it, they are doing their job as is but again all depends on how much you plan to race the car.

Thanks - I prefer to have them bolt in but want to make sure they provide adequate protection from twisting.

[HWYSTR455]

IMO, 50 year old driveshafts are worthless, and I would never put anything with even OE power levels of the day in front of them. They were borderline when new.

If you're getting a new shaft made, upgrade to 1350s, period. What's the saying about the weakest link again? Yeah.

If the slip yoke is OE or old/unknown origin, it should be replaced regardless of power level.

Same on diff, if pinion yoke is OE, or of unknown origin, replace.

The new yoke MIGHT be slightly different than the one coming out, so, you MIGHT have to crush the sleeve slightly more. You can replace the pinion yoke and not have to setup the gears again if you are careful, and know what you're doing. Crushing a sleeve that's already been crushed is not easy, and it may weaken it, but you really don't know if you will have to until you try and check preload.

If the rear has a lot of miles on it, take the dive. If it goes away faster than it would have if you left it alone, it won't be by much of a margin.

.

[JUDGE3]

Had my stock steel driveshaft changed to 1350's and a forged sonnax yoke.

$325 driveshaft/$120 yoke money well spent.

I have a moser 12 bolt with the 1350 yoke as well.

I used the global west weld to the rear subframe, bolt to the front.

don't look under your car and have to ask, where's the beef!