#1  
Old 10-28-2021, 12:20 PM
ta man ta man is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Clinton,Ontario,Canada
Posts: 5,544
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 78w72 View Post
attack you??? OK. im not "bloating it" or trying to prove a point & definitely not "attacking" you.. sorry if you interpreted my post & question that way. it was posted as a question & stating cost of a complete forged driveshaft, nothing more... your post i was replying to said "If you choose to have a shaft made, the majority of the cost is labor and ends, it makes sense to just have a whole new shaft made. With u-joints, ends, and a slip yoke, expect to pay in the $350-$500 range."

yes the link i posted was to a nodular slip yoke, i was providing that as an alternative to the fully forged stuff some are suggesting that isnt needed for the average street car.

the links you posted dont include the forged 1350 yoke & that has to be factored in the pricing of a complete shaft that is being discussed here. its over $600 shipped from strange or summit. thats all i was saying, no need to take that any other way.

done.
The OP doesn't have an average street car. Take a good look at his combo used...to me it doesn't make sense to not ante up and put a full CM driveshaft complete with CM trans input and diff yoke. Just be done with it..what is an extra 500 to 600 dollars for a bulletproof setup instead of a what if ??

__________________

466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2,generic one inch open spacer
373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor
best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft
308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471
  #2  
Old 10-28-2021, 01:28 PM
78w72 78w72 is offline
Suspended
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: iowa
Posts: 5,598
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ta man View Post
The OP doesn't have an average street car. Take a good look at his combo used...to me it doesn't make sense to not ante up and put a full CM driveshaft complete with CM trans input and diff yoke. Just be done with it..what is an extra 500 to 600 dollars for a bulletproof setup instead of a what if ??
i fully agree with that & did look at his combo, i said many times above that for that power level a stock shaft probably isnt a good idea & the ~$600 for a forged 1350 one is well worth it. or that there is a middle ground for guys with a little less extreme of street cars than yours or mine with 600lb/ft stroker motors by using a nodular iron yoke on a new DOM 3" shaft & solid joints smaller than 1350 for about half the price.

what i mentioned is that in reality many people with less power than the OP but well above stock OE power levels have & do get away with a stock shafts & yokes. i think yours & mine prove that until you have big power & regularly drag race a car at our times a stock shaft failure is pretty rare for a street car. & like you & myself did, many people dont want/need to or cant afford a $600 shaft for their street car.

same logic applies to lots of things with these cars, some ask for ideas on a mild streetable build & get people telling them they need forged rods & crank & aluminum heads with huge cams for max power to avoid the what if... just keeping it in perspective.

Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:16 PM.

 

About Us

The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




Copyright © 2017