| FAQ |
| Members List |
| Social Groups |
| Calendar |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Murf |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
Easiest way..when one has done many engine/tranny swaps by themselves you learn the easier way to do things.
__________________
466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2,generic one inch open spacer 373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft 308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471 |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
The funny thing is the engine and transmission was designed to be split apart in chassis by the the engineers to service either the engine, or the transmission separately. No service manual shows pulling them as an assembly that I've ever seen.
Pulling the whole assembly to service one, or the other makes a whole bunch of extra work. When I was 16 YO and was just beginning working on cars we used to pull the whole assembly, but as I got around professional mechanics they would wonder why I was doing a lot of extra work to pull both components, to work on only one. Took a lot of BS from the old guys early on. I decided to try pulling one, or the other instead and found when your working against the clock for a paycheck, you split them in chassis, and remove only the part you need to. As I said I used to pull both, but stopped doing that after working flat rate as a mechanic. I'm not saying it's better either way, but it is faster to split them in chassis. From 50 years of experience, the only way I'd put both in together is I was working on both at the same time, (as this situation is in the OPs car, both pieces are out already), With a lift, I'd probably install each part separately, and marry them in chassis. I do realize he doesn't have a lift in his garage. I'm still not certain why you cant access the bell housing bolts in this scenario. I really don't like standing the whole assembly at a 45 degree angle to stab the transmission into the tunnel, then tilting it as you get the engine closer to the frame. Lifting the engine out nearly level without the transmission attached, you have a lot less clearance problems. I also think that doing more modern drivelines without nearly as much weight on the rear is easier to balance. Consider when I first started working on cars that the had cast iron hydramatics weighing half of what the engine weighed, plus they were as long as a freight train, much harder to stab in a full size car as an assembly. I also got tired of the transmission fluid lake you inevitably get if you don't have a spare yoke, which many time we didn't as teens working in our parents garages. Man my father used to get pissed when I did that in his garage at home...LOL, and he was a mechanic to make it worse, and he never filled the floor with transmission fluid when he did it. I also have found it easier when you're alone, to do only one piece at a time. Doing both as an assembly is possible with one person, but easier with more.
|
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
__________________
62' Lemans, Nostalgia Super Stock, 541 CI, IA2 block, billet 4.5" crank, Ross, Wide port Edelbrocks, Gustram intake, 2 4150 style BLP carbs, 2.10 Turbo 400, 9" w/4:30 gears, 8.76 @153, 3100lbs |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
I read all the posts, I do know the situation, and put that in my post.
Given the car is just restored, the possibility to damage it, by putting both assemblies in as one seems like the last choice I'd do, having done it once myself in 1974. I also had a 69 GTO that was freshly painted. If you look at my signature pics it's the black flamed 69 GTO behind the 69 GP race car. I needed to pull the engine and transmission out of for work on both units, it also had headers. I was a nervous wreck reinstalling them as one unit, so I wouldn't do it again. Been there done that, not doing it again. I was younger (20) and less experienced in 1974 when I did mine, but it did get done, and the car was unscathed. Yes it's possible, it also is the easiest to cause damage to a very nicely restored car too. I hope the OP gets it in unscathed. I'm sure there will be some that disagree, and that's fine, I have my experience's and they have theirs's. Everyone has the freedom to choose their operations on their car. So yes it's possible, I did it, and so have others on here. Having done it once on a nice car, I wouldn't advise doing it. The engineers made the units separate and show in service manuals how they intended them to be serviced as separate units, that was the point of the post. Sorry if you don't agree with the points, even though I believe they are valid. And the final thing is, I put in my at the end of my post, although you may deem it worthless, and that's fine with me.
|
| Reply |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|