[chuckies76ta]

Here is an update on my coolant setup. I went back to the way I had it setup last summer and it worked really nice with the mechanical pump.
I ran a coolant hose from the back of the driver head to the crossover. I also ran a coolant hose from the passenger head to the crossover and also went to the return on the water pump. Bypassed my heater core. I had my son weld 2 fittings in the crossover. I also drilled 2-1/8” holes in my 160 *thermostat which help remove any air trapped in the heads/block.
I fired the engine yesterday and it ran really nice. The engine came up to 160 * and the thermostat opened and temp stayed fine. The electric water pump worked great. The electric fans cooled the engine no problem.
The way I have it setup is the water circulates through the bypass and also through the heater core return on the water pump. So water is always circulating in the block and heads. Thermostat opens and water is circulated through the rad. I have it also setup that the electric water pump starts when the engine is started. I also have it on a manual switch to turn on with engine off. I have the electric fans set up on a sensor that turns them on at 185* and off at 165*. I also have the fans on a manual switch.
The reason I went back to the thermostat setup is I didn’t like the way the water in the rad was working. I installed a 2” adapter on my water crossover and that was when things started working weird. I filled the rad up removed most of the air in the system and when I would start the electric pump the water would drop like 7 inches in the radiator. I finally figured out what was causing that, which was the 2 inch adapter I installed on the crossover. I remove that adapter and everything in the rad came back to normal. I installed my crossover with the two fittings welded in it. (As in Pic) It had to do with the level of the radiator and the level of the water in the engine crossover being at different heights. This is a pic of my crossover for the water feed from back of the heads. The other pic is the adapter I tried on the water crossover. Having the fittings in the water crossover keeps the water level in the block and in the radiator at the level it was design for. So the radiator water lever never fluctuates when the water pump is turned on. I also believe now that the bypass and heater core return remain operational as it is essential if running an electric water pump, that way you never are dead heading the pump and also the water pump has a decent supply of water when the thermostat is closed. If there is no thermostat, then that’s a different deal. I also believe a couple 1/8 bypass holes in the thermostat help remove any air in the block/heads if there is or would be cavitation to the pump impeller.
I guess what one has to take into consideration with these electric water pump is that they run at a constant speed regardless of engine rpm. I’m starting to think that is the reason that they want the thermostat removed, and then try to match the flow to the radiator with restrictor plates. Once the thermostat opens your essentially the same as if your running a restrictor plate. I like the idea of the thermostat in place as it allows the engine to come up to temp faster and also helps heat the oil up. Thermostat also help regulate the engine temp. Keeps the engine at 160* in my case. Just my .02.

[Tom Vaught]

https://www.meziere.com/Products/Coo...ut-55-GPM.aspx

Above is the Meziere Radiator-Mount/Electric-Pump-Radiator-Mounted-High-Flow-Dual-out-55-GPM link.

Dual outlets go to the Moon Timing cover ears.

Tom V.

I posted the Factory Timing Cover to show that you can add bypass water from the heads to the heater return nipple on the timing cover. It feeds the inlet side of the normal water pump, or timing cover electric water pump.

[R 70 Judge]

Originally Posted by chuckies76ta

Here is an update on my coolant setup. I went back to the way I had it setup last summer and it worked really nice with the mechanical pump.
I ran a coolant hose from the back of the driver head to the crossover. I also ran a coolant hose from the passenger head to the crossover and also went to the return on the water pump. Bypassed my heater core. I had my son weld 2 fittings in the crossover. I also drilled 2-1/8” holes in my 160 *thermostat which help remove any air trapped in the heads/block.
I fired the engine yesterday and it ran really nice. The engine came up to 160 * and the thermostat opened and temp stayed fine. The electric water pump worked great. The electric fans cooled the engine no problem.
The way I have it setup is the water circulates through the bypass and also through the heater core return on the water pump. So water is always circulating in the block and heads. Thermostat opens and water is circulated through the rad. I have it also setup that the electric water pump starts when the engine is started. I also have it on a manual switch to turn on with engine off. I have the electric fans set up on a sensor that turns them on at 185* and off at 165*. I also have the fans on a manual switch.
The reason I went back to the thermostat setup is I didn’t like the way the water in the rad was working. I installed a 2” adapter on my water crossover and that was when things started working weird. I filled the rad up removed most of the air in the system and when I would start the electric pump the water would drop like 7 inches in the radiator. I finally figured out what was causing that, which was the 2 inch adapter I installed on the crossover. I remove that adapter and everything in the rad came back to normal. I installed my crossover with the two fittings welded in it. (As in Pic) It had to do with the level of the radiator and the level of the water in the engine crossover being at different heights. This is a pic of my crossover for the water feed from back of the heads. The other pic is the adapter I tried on the water crossover. Having the fittings in the water crossover keeps the water level in the block and in the radiator at the level it was design for. So the radiator water lever never fluctuates when the water pump is turned on. I also believe now that the bypass and heater core return remain operational as it is essential if running an electric water pump, that way you never are dead heading the pump and also the water pump has a decent supply of water when the thermostat is closed. If there is no thermostat, then that’s a different deal. I also believe a couple 1/8 bypass holes in the thermostat help remove any air in the block/heads if there is or would be cavitation to the pump impeller.
I guess what one has to take into consideration with these electric water pump is that they run at a constant speed regardless of engine rpm. I’m starting to think that is the reason that they want the thermostat removed, and then try to match the flow to the radiator with restrictor plates. Once the thermostat opens your essentially the same as if your running a restrictor plate. I like the idea of the thermostat in place as it allows the engine to come up to temp faster and also helps heat the oil up. Thermostat also help regulate the engine temp. Keeps the engine at 160* in my case. Just my .02.

Interesting information here. So if I'm understanding this right, you think the water neck adapter had an effect on the level in the radiator? btw if you want to part with that water neck adapter, I'd be interested in it. The vendor doesn't have any available right now and I wanted to try it out.

[Hammertime Mike]

Sounds good , thanks for the heads up !!