[SD455DJ]

Originally Posted by giles

If you can find a radiator shop that still re-cores stuff you might be able to get a new core for your Harrison end tank.

A good friend told me about an old radiator repair shop in Ferndale, MI called Ferndale Radiator Repair that still rebuilds/re-cores old radiators and heater cores the old fashioned way. It's good to know a few still exist for our old cars. I do need to have the original 3-core radiator rebuild as it is plugged bad, so will probably take it down there this spring.

Dennis

[SD455DJ]

We got the new temp and oil pressure sending units installed (it was a real bugger getting the steel plug in the crossover out after 52 years...lots of PB Blaster & heat), along with the temp gauge jumper harness. The new dash harness is all but installed on the dash to be reinstalled this Friday. We also got the heater box with the new copper-brass heater core and replacement control cable back in. We might have working factory gauges this weekend!?!

Dennis

[Ramairnacho]

Originally Posted by SD455DJ

We got the new temp and oil pressure sending units installed (it was a real bugger getting the steel plug in the crossover out after 52 years...lots of PB Blaster & heat), along with the temp gauge jumper harness. The new dash harness is all but installed on the dash to be reinstalled this Friday. We also got the heater box with the new copper-brass heater core and replacement control cable back in. We might have working factory gauges this weekend!?!

Dennis

Hi I'm Ignacio I'd like to ask my car has both sending units too on intake . Im.thinkimg drivers side is for water temp but what's the passenger side? My car is auto and original radiator broke long ago but have a non stock replacement. I bought a 70 esprit as a parts car and it has the original radiator cap and I'd tag and I believe it's a 4 row was wondering if original heater core is the brass copper one is it best to have it rebuilt along with radiator and who does those. I was referred to a man in Michigan for the radiator but unclear on heater core. Thank you

[SD455DJ]

Ignacio, The 3-prong sending unit on the passenger side is the original piece in the original location and is used for both gauge and non-gauge (idiot lights) applications. When you order gauges the driver side plug in the manifold is replaced by the temp sending unit and a jumper wire is added from the sender to the original passenger side electrical connector plug (directions show you where to plug it in).

As for radiator repair/recore shops, I would image they all recore heater cores as well, since they are just small radiators put together the same way as their big brothers...copper, brass, & solder. I was given the name of Ferndale Radiator Repair in Ferndale, MI for this work. I haven't used them yet, so I have no advice whether they are good or not, but my friend says they do good work.

If your Esprit has factory A/C then it should have had a 4-core radiator originally.

Dennis

[SD455DJ]

We made good progress today by getting the dash with the factory gauges & tach reinstalled and all the connections made to the proper homes. Before we got too far we connected the battery to see if there was any smoke or fire or blown fuses...none thank goodness. Then (with the key in the off position) we turned on the headlights, then the emergency flashers and noticed the oil & water gauges were pulsating with the flasher rhythm...weird. They didn't do it when the key was in the 'run' position...hmmm. Checked the fuses again and none were blown...good. Checked all the other electronics to make sure they were getting power, which they were, except for the wipers...what the heck! So we decided to see if the car would crank and start...it did...yeah! The tach worked, the fuel & volt gauges worked, but the oil & water temp gauges weren't...crap! Oil would read at a little below '0' zero and stayed there when the engine was running and rest a little above when off. The water temp would read a little below '0' zero when running (even when fully warmed up) then rest slightly above the 1/4 (155 degree?) hash mark when off. We're wondering if the printed circuit may have bad grounds and pathway circuits as it is the original. We checked all the grounds that are associated with the dash harness and they were solid and tight. The pictures are of the gauges when key is 'off'. So we have some more work ahead for us now...once we can figure out what the heck is wrong.

Anyone have any insight on what the issue(s) may be? Printed circuit?

Dennis

[Ramairnacho]

Originally Posted by SD455DJ

We made good progress today by getting the dash with the factory gauges & tach reinstalled and all the connections made to the proper homes. Before we got too far we connected the battery to see if there was any smoke or fire or blown fuses...none thank goodness. Then (with the key in the off position) we turned on the headlights, then the emergency flashers and noticed the oil & water gauges were pulsating with the flasher rhythm...weird. They didn't do it when the key was in the 'run' position...hmmm. Checked the fuses again and none were blown...good. Checked all the other electronics to make sure they were getting power, which they were, except for the wipers...what the heck! So we decided to see if the car would crank and start...it did...yeah! The tach worked, the fuel & volt gauges worked, but the oil & water temp gauges weren't...crap! Oil would read at a little below '0' zero and stayed there when the engine was running and rest a little above when off. The water temp would read a little below '0' zero when running (even when fully warmed up) then rest slightly above the 1/4 (155 degree?) hash mark when off. We're wondering if the printed circuit may have bad grounds and pathway circuits as it is the original. We checked all the grounds that are associated with the dash harness and they were solid and tight. The pictures are of the gauges when key is 'off'. So we have some more work ahead for us now...once we can figure out what the heck is wrong.

Anyone have any insight on what the issue(s) may be? Printed circuit?

Dennis

Looks like a behind you with my project. Is it possible oil / temp guage defective ? Or even polarity connected backwards, defective sending units. Just thinking out loud. I should be going through simular issues too. Will have my harness in and operational before I remove engine. I.. very curious to know if original harness or new. That might be issue too

[Ramairnacho]

I also have electric diagram from factory I will take pics of it for you to read if you like

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by SD455DJ

A good friend told me about an old radiator repair shop in Ferndale, MI called Ferndale Radiator Repair that still rebuilds/re-cores old radiators and heater cores the old fashioned way. It's good to know a few still exist for our old cars. I do need to have the original 3-core radiator rebuild as it is plugged bad, so will probably take it down there this spring.

Dennis

Originally Posted by SD455DJ

Mike, I'll have to check...but I'm thinking since the radiator was gummed up pretty bad when we got it, it was a replacement and didn't have the original tags, or else we would have taken pictures of them...and I don't see any pics of the radiator we removed.

Dennis

I was just going by this other post. Thanks.

[SD455DJ]

Well, now I'm just going to have to check upstairs to see if I really do have it...lol! I wonder if I was confused with the original 4 core radiator in my '71 455HO Formula...?

Dennis

[SD455DJ]

We finally got the time (and the inspiration) to pull the RAIII 400 out of the Formula. It developed a slight bottom end knock when coming back from the 2022 TA Nationals and been parked since then. We spent yesterday pulling the engine (first time it’s been out of the engine bay since it left the Norwood assembly plant in late April of 1970). Instead of being down for another year, we decide to install another engine in temporarily, a 455HO from Dan’s engine stash. It been in several Pontiac A-body’s and was also in a 1971 T-37 that was raced at the Pure Stock Drags back around 2010 and was a participant in Pontiac Enthusiasts Magazines Pavement Pounders series where it went 12.50’s at 108 mph. It’s served duty in a ’71 Judge and GTO while their engines were out being rebuilt most recently.

The plan for the RAIII is to install forged rods & pistons, 1-piece stainless steel valves, bronze guides, new springs and retainers, poly-locks, etc. for durability. We’ll see if the original 068 ‘S’ cam & lifters are still good to be reused. If not, we’ll likely go with the Summit 2801 cam with Johnson Hylift hydraulic lifters. I’m going to keep the original RA exhaust manifolds on it in lieu of the oversized outlet units. We’ll be keeping the quench tight at .040” and the static compression ratio as low as possible, hopefully around 10.2 to 1. It should run well on 93 octane fuel with the proper timing curve and jetting. We will dyno the engine and post the results when that happens (this fall most likely). The build will be identical to the small valve XV code 400 in my ’70 Tempest with the only differences being the large valve #12 heads and the RA exhaust manifolds. That engine dyno’d at 385 hp/454 lb-ft torque, so we’re thinking 400+ hp/475 lb-ft should be attainable.

Dennis

[Formulajones]

That will be a great thread Dennis. Pretty much how I built my 70 RAIII 400 years ago. Never had it on an engine dyno but have had it on a chassis dyno where it did 301/355 and based on that and the 3890 race weight going 106 mph with the 3.31's I guesstimate it's probably making 380-390-ish+ hp at the flywheel.
Back then I used the old heavy TRW slugs in it with the tractor type 5/64 ring package. Quite a few things I'd change doing it over now that would be worth a few more ponies but it's been such a solid reliable engine that I've raced the dog snot out of for decades I just hate to mess with it.

[SD455DJ]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

That will be a great thread Dennis. Pretty much how I built my 70 RAIII 400 years ago. Never had it on an engine dyno but have had it on a chassis dyno where it did 301/355 and based on that and the 3890 race weight going 106 mph with the 3.31's I guesstimate it's probably making 380-390-ish+ hp at the flywheel.
Back then I used the old heavy TRW slugs in it with the tractor type 5/64 ring package. Quite a few things I'd change doing it over now that would be worth a few more ponies but it's been such a solid reliable engine that I've raced the dog snot out of for decades I just hate to mess with it.

FJ, you're Formula is really quick for the build it has...very impressive. I'm not sure mine will run any quicker to be honest. I wonder why your Formy has 3.31's and not 3.55's being a RAIII/M40 non AC car...or does it have AC?

Dennis

[SD455DJ]

I need to make a correction in my earlier post...the magazine was High Performance Pontiac (HPP), not Pontiac Enthusiast (sorry Don) as I stated. Dan built that 455 to '71 455HO specs (block is a YC from a '72 B-body) to meet the old "Certified" class at the Pure Stock Drags where your engine was inspected and certified to be legal per the rules and was reassembled under watch and special paint applied at the engine component joints to ensure no midnight changes. The cam is a custom 068 grind with a slightly tighter LCL (112), but measures 212/225/112 at .050" lift and max lift of .415"/.412". The compression is 9.49 static and it dyno'd at 412 hp @ 4800 rpm and 525 lbft torque at 3300 rpm. It liked 35-37 degrees advance the most with only a hp/lbft, or 2 at most variation between settings.

Dennis

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by SD455DJ

FJ, you're Formula is really quick for the build it has...very impressive. I'm not sure mine will run any quicker to be honest. I wonder why your Formy has 3.31's and not 3.55's being a RAIII/M40 non AC car...or does it have AC?

Dennis

No ac, I put 3.31's in it.