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Old 04-18-2022, 10:29 AM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 6,994
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Two methods that work very well if your replacing the steel lines anyway. Method 1: cut the steel lines near the nut. With a combo valve, cut all the lines. Remove combo valve and put in a soft jaw vise. Use a good 6 point socket and long 3/8" ratchet. Flare nuts will come right out. I have a mini-air saw. I can have all the lines cut off in 1 minute. A hack saw will work as well. Method 2: There are 2 places that lock the line to the fitting. 1. Rust between the line and flare nut ID, and 2 compression from flare nut to the valve. Use a pair of high quality vise grips and get them on what's left of the nut as tight as you can. The squeezing of the vise grips will break the seal between the line and nut. They will then turn out. Both methods kill the lines of course, but your throwing them out anyway. Before I begin, I suck out all the brake fluid with a vacuum bleeder. Then the entire repair is no mess, no fuss. If I was trying to save the steel lines and the nuts, then I would use heat. But not in this situation where I am throwing them away. Good luck.

  #2  
Old 04-18-2022, 10:58 AM
sdbob sdbob is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Latrobe,Pa. USA
Posts: 2,878
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I had a 74 TA rusted bad. I did what Mike suggested for proportion valve. Used some liquid wrench. Good luck. Take your time.

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