[grivera]

If the 200 is with the AC on you're doing great. Even if not with AC on, 200 is fine - the question is does it keep going up uncontrollably?

[68WarDog]

What clutch fan assembly are you using? I recently did the clutch spring repositioning , and it has been good for an average of 8/9 degrees decrease in heavy 90+ degree traffic( 175-178). If the fan/ clutch assembly is inadequate you will creep higher.
My 70 is 600+bhp. 14 initial/34 total @3k. I'm running a 4 core aluminum radiator with stock shroud. Pontiac 19" 7 blade fan, Hayden 2747 clutch with the spring repositioned as mentioned. 160 thermostat, and I have the rear of my heads Td. 25% antifreeze, distilled water with a bottle of water wetter.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by grivera

If the 200 is with the AC on you're doing great. Even if not with AC on, 200 is fine - the question is does it keep going up uncontrollably?

Thank you for the modified fan clutch. I have a Cold Case radiator, fan shroud, biggest fan that will fit in it (17 inch) and a Hayden severe duty clutch. I dont know if it would actually overheat or not, I just dont want to find out at the worst time.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by 64speed

Thank you for the modified fan clutch. I have a Cold Case radiator, fan shroud, biggest fan that will fit in it (17 inch) and a Hayden severe duty clutch. I dont know if it would actually overheat or not, I just dont want to find out at the worst time.

you're welcome

[HWYSTR455]

I suspect you need more timing advance at idle.

You have vacuum advance? Is it on ported or manifold source?

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[64speed]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I suspect you need more timing advance at idle.

You have vacuum advance? Is it on ported or manifold source?

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I was thinking that was a possibility. I have it on full vacuum because the car seems to cruise better that way.

[HWYSTR455]

Manifold is good, now you just need to know how much you're getting at idle. Obviously, if your idle rpm changes, it changes your vacuum, and hence, changes your vacuum advance.

A good starting point for initial (mech) timing is in the 12-16 degree range, I personally usually run 16.

Vacuum, general range is 6-14 degrees, with more initial, usually less vacuum advance (closer to 6-8) works, but it takes testing. (I personally use about 10, 8 with a regular 'can' type vacuum pod).

Add that up, and at idle, I usually am around 24-26 degrees.

That's with about 925-950 RPM idle, and I suggest trying in the 850 range to start.

If you idle around 650-750 rpm, adding 100-200 rpm will make a difference on timing, vacuum, and, in turn, cooling. (moving more coolant too)

Of course it take minor carb adjustments as you try to find what works best for you, moving in those ranges. I suggest taking notes with each step, so you can reference results of your changes. (Helps keeping you from getting 'lost')

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[HWYSTR455]

Manual cars are fine idling at 950-1000 RPM by the way. Depending on your combo, at 1000 idle, you can in many cases slowly release the clutch without giving it gas, and not stall. Keeps 'foot-dancing' at a minimum.

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