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Old 08-10-2022, 07:28 PM
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Sirrotica Sirrotica is offline
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If you feel the stalling in heat related I would buy some of the 1/2 inch ID pipe insulation, and cover the lines to see if the stalling is affected:

Ljnk: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...5812/204760811

In 1977-79 Pontiac had factory fuel lines from the fuel pump to the carb that were foam insulated for preventing vapor lock.



My parents had a ford motorhome that was so sensitive to ambient air temps, the only time they could travel was after sundown. I insulated the whole fuel system, and built an air intake under the front bumper to duct cool air to the carb. I ran the fuel lines inside the duct to cool the fuel as well as the ducts blew cool air directly onto the front of the fuel bowl.

This solved the vapor lock as well as increased the mileage about 1 1/2 MPG. They lived in Phoenix, so it was tested under the absolute worst possible conditions. No further problems after revamping the fuel system..........


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Old 08-10-2022, 07:42 PM
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Formulajones Formulajones is offline
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I've used that insulation in some situations when making fuel lines, and slide it on before I make the flare. Good stuff

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Old 08-11-2022, 12:54 AM
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STEELCITYFIREBIRD STEELCITYFIREBIRD is offline
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From experience, a quick sniff of the exhaust when the no start occurs….

>If the exhaust while cranking smells of raw fuel it’s it’s an ignition problem

>If it doesn’t smell of raw fuel it’s fuel delivery problem.

��SPARK
I would check for spark quality ….AT the spark plugs!….engine cold. Compare that to the spark quality when the no start condition is active.
All good…same spark quality. Move on.
Weak spark work back upstream. Or go to the coil and check spark quality there. Good at coil look to cap , rotor, coil wire…then ignition wires to plugs.

⛽️FUEL compare the accelerator pump discharge cold engine to no start condition.
If it’s weak or absent with a FEW full pulls on the throttle during no start condition. Remove fuel line at carb and crank engine, discharge ~ a pint into a glass jar. If no discharge work back from there to the tank. Let jar sit and see if it separates…water at the bottom….fuel quantity, quality and contamination check, sniff it smells “stale”. An Aquired smell to recognize, but “not normal “ .

Meanwhile if Fuel to the carb, but accelerator pump discharge runs out after a few full pulls on the throttle or weak and runs out of shot after a pull or two ….Fuel inlet needle and seat problem.



A logical check of fuel and ignition systems will yield a first time, viable repair. The repair is the easy part, a proper diagnosis makes that possible.
������

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