[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Just to say, on the ring gaps, I always cut mine to include a street/strip N2O shot, no harm in doing so, even at large gaps that 'standard', you won't have any additional or measurable blow by. Your call on that. IMO, better safe than sorry. Too little can cause way more damage.

I too believe the 2nd ring gap should be a touch larger, there again, your call.

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According to the instructions, Total Seal says to go .0045 per inch of bore for both rings. 4.17 x .0045 = .018765, so I ended up filing on the looser side of .018 for both first and second rings. I'm open to suggestions if that sounds like it might cause problems.

I did find it suprising that you install the inside taper differently for the top and bottom rings. The instructions aid it should be installed facing up on the top ring and facing down on the bottom ring (dot facing up).

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I use a stone to treat/deburr all edges on the ring ends too.

It's ok if the rings vary slightly, .001-.003 more on any rings is not going to cause problems. Sure, try to get them all the same, but it really isn't going to make any big diff.
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I took my time filing the rings so they're all really close. I'd say .001 variance at most. I deburred the edges as well.

I cleaned all the pistons while I was at it and found some shavings from the machining process. Good reminder to clean and check all your parts.

I also installed the oil galley plug with the .040 hole for distributor gear oiling.

[HWYSTR455]

Nice work! And yes, inspect & clean all parts!

What do the instructions say for first level of N2O? I'm guessing the gap you used was for a standard, non-spray or boost car?

When rings butt, due to whatever reason, it causes damage such as broken rings, accelerated wear (rings & bore), and can hang up in the piston. There are usually 3 specs for rings in the instructions, standard, mild boost or spray, and race. Each step recommends the gap be opened up more. Some instructions are more granular, listing more than those 3 specs.

(attached example pic is a Total Seal Gap sheet, but can vary between ring types)

In the example gap instructions, first stage of N2O and/or boost, it calls for .0055, standard street/strip is .0045 .

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[HWYSTR455]

PS - Did you use any loctite on the galley plugs? Many use the sealant/locker blue or orange.


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[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Nice work! And yes, inspect & clean all parts!

What do the instructions say for first level of N2O? I'm guessing the gap you used was for a standard, non-spray or boost car?

When rings butt, due to whatever reason, it causes damage such as broken rings, accelerated wear (rings & bore), and can hang up in the piston. There are usually 3 specs for rings in the instructions, standard, mild boost or spray, and race. Each step recommends the gap be opened up more. Some instructions are more granular, listing more than those 3 specs.

(attached example pic is a Total Seal Gap sheet, but can vary between ring types)

In the example gap instructions, first stage of N2O and/or boost, it calls for .0055, standard street/strip is .0045 .

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My chart shows the same. Sounds like there's no harm, and maybe some reassurance, in going a little more generous than .018. If I got by the next step up, that would put my at .023 which is quite a bit bigger.

What if I split the difference with .020 on the top ring and .023 on the bottom ring? What's the logic behind the wider gap on the bottom ring?

Good call on checking at the bottom of the cylinder. Just had it bored with a torque plate so it should be uniform, but I'll check.

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

PS - Did you use any loctite on the galley plugs? Many use the sealant/locker blue or orange.

I used Loctite sealant on the plugs.

[HWYSTR455]

Cool, loctite works, and even if it seeps a little, as long as it doesn't come out, will not see an psi change.

Really, .005 is nothing, think about gapping a plug from .030 to .035. I say just go to the next step, at least.

Now that I think about it, I actually would go 2 steps above standard on my builds, because I knew I was good to a 250 shot. That last engine went over 100k hard miles, and a bunch of N2O. I sold the short block to someone on this board, and they ran it like it was for probably another 100k. That was a 400, the strokers after that I know I went at least 1 step above standard, but would have to look it up to be sure exactly how much. I do have all the blueprint info on all my engines, so know I have that info.

You will not have any additional oil consumption or blow by over standard, if any, it would be so marginal you won't be able to measure it. Even at the widest gaps.

Ask Butler when you call, see what they say, but bet it will be kind of vague, since there's not a lot of negative impact in going bigger than intended purpose per the manufacturer's recommendations.

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[napster]

I'm having a very similar build done and have been waiting for almost a year for the build to be done. We are waiting for the transmission to be finished, but don't know when it will be completed due to supply issues. The transmission is a Tremec T-56 and only one part is holding it up.

Anyway, the engine is quite similar to the OP's build. Differences I see are minimal. Mine will be a 461 with a fully forged rotating assembly. Compression will be 9.9 to 1. Same type of heads as the OP's.

The cam seems to be up in the air at this point with my engine builder. I gave him the Butler RAIV roller cam I bought. I also have a cam with the same specs as previously suggested. It is a roller from Butler with the 236/242/112 specs. My engine builder thinks it is too radical for the build and would like me to go with the HR RAIV cam. I think the slightly bigger cam would be fine. Here are the cam cards. Also, going with Harland sharp roller rockers 1.65 with either cam.

I'm running two other 461's with 87CC Edelbrock aium. heads. The same builder went with the off the shelf Comp XR288HR cam. 236/242/110 and both are run with Doug's headers. Doesn't make any sense to me.

The 110 LSA is with the headers and the 112 LSA is for the RA manifolds.

Jim