[Verdoro 68]

Got the replacement rings today and was able to get the last piston installed. Milestone! Re-checked the torque of all the mains and rods then installed the lower dipstick tube, windage tray spacers and stock windage tray which was previously modified to clear the main studs.

I fiddled with the timing set some more. I used a brake cylinder hone to make the cam gear fit more comfortable. That one was pretty easy. The crank gear was a pain. I dressed the woodruff key and used some fine sand paper to knock down some of the edges on the crank gear. I found a couple burrs on the crank snout from my first few test fits so I knocked those down with some emory cloth. I was reading through an old thread where Cliff mentioned heating the crank gear to expand it so I busted out the propane torch, heated it up and it slipped right on. I had to work fast though.

I have things lined up dot to dot for starters. The .005 short chain fits like a glove. If I end up needing to advance it, the crank gear will probably need a puller to come off. The one I have isn't thin enough to get between the block and the chain, but I'll cross that bridge if I get there.

Now to go refresh my memory to setting up a cam. It's been a few years...

[HWYSTR455]

Nice! Yeah I have a hot plate in the garage for just those type of occasions. Could slightly warm it with a heat gun too.

Wish I had access to my notes, but think the rollmaster sets are off a couple degrees, if my memory is serving me right! Know it depends in a number of factors, but that's what I remember. (think it's 3 degrees retarded in my experiences)

You can mic the snout and balancer, see if that's going to be stubborn too or not. If you look at the one pic of my mishap, you can see I lightly peened the snout end where the key 'line' is, which helps when lining up the key/keyway during install.

In my case, I think since I was using an installer, the turning of the nut/hat of the installer my have turned the balancer along the way, not sure. But the marks helped initially.


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[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

I have things lined up dot to dot for starters. The .005 short chain fits like a glove. If I end up needing to advance it, the crank gear will probably need a puller to come off. The one I have isn't thin enough to get between the block and the chain, but I'll cross that bridge if I get there.

If you have to pull the gear you don't want the timing chain to be on the gear.

Stan

[johnta1]

The cam snout should be sticking out of the gear?
Do you have the cam plate on?

Probably need to pry the cam forward and slide the gear on more.

[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

You can mic the snout and balancer, see if that's going to be stubborn too or not. If you look at the one pic of my mishap, you can see I lightly peened the snout end where the key 'line' is, which helps when lining up the key/keyway during install.

Good idea. Lining up the gear with the key is a pain. I marked the snout with a sharpie but it wears of quickly. Will check the balancer.

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

If you have to pull the gear you don't want the timing chain to be on the gear.

Good call. I don't want to damage or stretch the chain. The chain is a very tight fit so I can't remove it off the cam gear without moving the crank sprocket in tandem. Any recommendations?

Originally Posted by johnta1

The cam snout should be sticking out of the gear?
Do you have the cam plate on?

Probably need to pry the cam forward and slide the gear on more.

Yes, it should and I will.