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On most engine dynos [which I have limited experience with] there are characteristics about how it functions that make it so it needs to be running at a certain rpm (usually 3500+rpm) for accurate readings. If anyone knows particulars, please share. Things are different on a chassis dyno. With an automatic transmission, you have to worry about the transmission downshifting. When a car downshifts on the dyno at WOT, it can be a little unnerving! The car I performed the testing on has a THM350. I've been able to start testing at/below 3000rpm at times, but not consistently without a downshift. Even when I can, the chassis moves around, the carb takes a moment to transition and settle down, etc. making the first few hundred RPM "funny" at times - so it is usually about 3500 before I have "clean" data. With a modern computer-controlled transmission, if you know how to program it, you CAN make a dyno program which will allow testing to start a much lower RPM. If I have a car with a manual tranny, then I can test at any RPM. I've attached another dyno graph. This is a 79 T/A with an 8.3:1 400, R/A exhaust manifolds, Performer intake and a Qjet. You can see where the secondaries start opening around 2600rpm. But I do agree with you. I see MOST people throwing away a lot of mid/low-range power in exchange for a little bit of a HP gain. My own car (from the "start at 3500" pulls) has 3.08 gears and a stock torque converter, yet it still has traction problems off the line with 255/60 MT drag radials.
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'73 T/A (sold). Low budget stock headed 8.3:1 455, 222/242 116lsa .443/.435 cam. FAST Sportsman EFI, 317rwhp/385rwtq on 87 octane. 13.12 @103.2, 1.91 60'. '67 Firebird [sold], ; 11.27 @ 119.61, 7.167 @ 96.07, with UD 280/280 (108LSA/ 109 ICL)solid cam. [1.537, 7.233 @93.61, 11.46 @ 115.4 w/ old UD 288/296 108 hydraulic cam] Feb '05 HPP, home-ported "16" D-ports, dished pistons (pump gas only), 3.42 gears, 275/60 DR's, 750DP, T2, full exhaust |
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