[Verdoro 68]

While I wait for the heads, I am having a hell of a time getting this thing to seal up.

Since my last go 'round, I put a new BOP one piece pan seal on using dabs of Permatex black in the four corners. That stuff seems to seal much better, but I've still got a few drips from the rear of the pan. Looks like there's definitely a leak on the rear arch arch. I left the tabs on the seal this time, but probably shouldn't have since they don't line up that great with my pan. I think they interfered with the rear arch seating properly, so I'll cut them off for this next attempt.

I am seeing some oil collected on the rear of the crank, but it doesn't appear to be wet up by the rear main seal, so I think the oil carried over from the pan while I had the engine tipped. Any way to be sure it's not the rear main too? I'm also seeing oil collected at the top of the rear main stud thread. Not sure if it's seeping up or residual from having the block upside down on the stand.

Any tips to get this thing to seal? I didn't think it would be this difficult.

[HWYSTR455]

Everything back there needs to be as perfect as possible, there's very little to no 'fudge factor' allowed.

It's been so long since I've used a factory type pan, I really can't comment on that area much. I think back in the day when I still used OE pans, I did lean towards the cork seals, but those can be tricky too. The rubber nubs rarely line up correctly. and when they do, they still leaked for me.

I used to curl up the cork gasket and leave it sit like that overnight. That helped it lay properly during install, and made trimming it easier.

I remember the full engine gasket sets used to come with a number of different rear pan seals, like 3 rubber ones, and then of course the cork. I recall I could never get any of the rubber ones to work, but the one rubber one that leaked the least was the one that was just a ribbed 'belt', with the small teets that went into the recess in the block where the cap meets.

The 2-piece rear main seals need to be perfect. I would always spend a lot of time on those, and, when done, you had to stare hard to even see where the parting lines were.

That's my brain-dump as of now, keep chopping away at it, you will get it.


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[Qball]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

While I wait for the heads, I am having a hell of a time getting this thing to seal up.

Since my last go 'round, I put a new BOP one piece pan seal on using dabs of Permatex black in the four corners. That stuff seems to seal much better, but I've still got a few drips from the rear of the pan. Looks like there's definitely a leak on the rear arch arch. I left the tabs on the seal this time, but probably shouldn't have since they don't line up that great with my pan. I think they interfered with the rear arch seating properly, so I'll cut them off for this next attempt.

I am seeing some oil collected on the rear of the crank, but it doesn't appear to be wet up by the rear main seal, so I think the oil carried over from the pan while I had the engine tipped. Any way to be sure it's not the rear main too? I'm also seeing oil collected at the top of the rear main stud thread. Not sure if it's seeping up or residual from having the block upside down on the stand.

Any tips to get this thing to seal? I didn't think it would be this difficult.

I used the BOP one piece pan gasket and it leaked in the back. I ended up pulling the engine back out and used a bead of Right Stuff on both sides of the gasket. Sealed it up nicely.


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