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#21
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Pull all the plugs out and spin the motor over with the starter.
If the noise shows up then jack the nose of the car up enough to get under it and then have someone crank the starter and then see if you can pin down where it’s coming from. Also take a good look at the oil pan in case you pushed it in with jack when working on the cam swap.
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I do stuff for reasons. |
#22
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#23
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if the converter is loose putting a breaker bar on the balancer bolt totating the engine back and forth may create the noise
Which brings to mind you did properly torque the balancer bolt on front end install??
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If your not at the table you're on the menu A man who falls for everything stands for nothing. |
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#24
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What these gents said. I hear the noisy alternator more than anything. I would remove the belts and run it again. Could very well be a loose converter bolt or balancer bolt. I don't hear anything that sounds like a bearing knock or piston slap.
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Jeff |
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#25
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Before removing all the belts get a spray bottle of Windex (glass cleaner) and with the engine running at idle spray each belt with the Windex. Spray it generously at each belt on the side riding in the pulley groove. If the noise goes away buy new belts. Note: the Windex will only stop the noise till it drys out. So the noise may return. Do not use belt dressing. Before installing new belts clean all the pulley grooves completely. Be careful of the moving belts, pulleys and fan blades.
Last edited by 1969GiPper; 02-05-2023 at 09:47 PM. |
#26
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I drove to a local car show years back with no issues. Then I got in the registration line where you sat and crept forward for registration and insurance checks. I'm 10 cars back with tons of people walking past the cars and admiring them when mine began making sounds like a roto-tiller chewing through rocks in the garden. Nice entrance that was with people pointing at your car and giving you the palms-up "what's wrong with your car?" hand signs and offering to help you push it to the side. I had no inspection plate on it at that time so I found a grassy place to park and took a wrench to it. I found all the convertor bolts just hanging by a thread or two. fortunately none of the holes wore out of round.
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Triple Black 1971 GTO Last edited by NeighborsComplaint; 02-05-2023 at 11:42 PM. |
#27
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Plain water in a squirt bottle works just as well for diagnosis, and doesn't leave any residue.
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#28
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Horrible noise in 400 at idle?
Lots of good advice here so I can’t add much. I’ve had the fan hitting shroud issue and it started after the motor warmed up. It was an aftermarket shroud made from the wrong type of plastic and it got so soft when it warmed up it literally got sucked into the fan blades. But that doesn’t sound like the problem you have. Sounds like the best place to start is all the bolts on the front pulleys and the converter. They’re easier to overlook than we imagine. Hopefully you’ll find the problem and won’t have to remove the timing cover. If you don’t find loose bolts fore or aft, I’d go with popping both valve covers next. Good luck and keep us posted.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#29
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" I just bought this car and I know nothing about the engine. The PO was evasive when I asked anything about the engine. So there were already red flags that the engine had issues, and I priced that into my offer".
With just that information, I wouldn't drive the car any further until pulling the engine for a complete diagnostic. It could be something simple or something serious the po didnt divulge. Do you want to take a chance on completely destroying your engine? |
#30
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Gonna definitely need to do some testing to find it but those are items to check that could save a lot of back breaking work, I’d also pull the valve covers look for anything w the rockers. Though I think that would be consistent . The fact that this goes away with RPM is interesting .
One posters thought on a fan blade hitting a shroud could be that way . Flex blade flattens out w RPM . I’d start there and flex plate issues including a cracked flex plate all the way around the bolts which I’ve also seen.
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Happiness is just a turbocharger away! 960 HP @ 11 psi, 9.70 at 146. Iron heads, iron stock 2 bolt block , stock crank, 9 years haven't even changed a spark plug! selling turbos and turbo related parts since 2005! |
#31
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A question that no-one has asked yet (or I missed it)......
Why did you change the camshaft ?
To upgrade for better performance or to repair a wiped cam or ??? I'd be checking to see if the cam retaining plate and fuel pump eccentric got reinstalled correctly - mostly the cam retaining plate. That will require the timing cover coming off again, but it's only a couple hours and another gasket to do that. If that retaining plate is missing, the cam can walk forward and back and the lifters can potentially hit the wrong lobes and it just basically makes a big mess. A good friend who mainly messed around with Chebbies left his retaining plate off his 1970 Trans Am many moons ago - back in the early 80s - and it chunked the cam lobes up pretty good. I don't recall whether it was making loud noises or not, but the exhaust was pretty loud already. I'm hoping for your sake it's just loose bolts somewhere. Anywhere. As others have mentioned, DON'T run it until you figure out what's wrong. Good luck! |
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#32
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And whatever you do ... POST WHAT YOU FIND
I hate it when a thread like this disappears with no resolution.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
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#33
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Got the car up on jackstands today.
IF THE CONVERTER'S KNOCKING, DON'T GO ROCKING. Whoever said loose converter gets the prize. Yup, the converter is loose on the flexplate! Check out the video below. One of the flexplate holes is elongated and the threads in one of the converter mounting feet are boogered up. Check out the mounting bolt from that hole. I'll have to take a closer look at the flexplate itself to see if there's damage beyond that one bolt hole. What should I look for, it's hard to see in front of the converter? Onward, party people! I'm just happy it's not in the engine. https://youtu.be/wPabvV0lCVE
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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum. White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25 |
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#34
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Glad you found it! Did you not drive the car before swapping the cam? I was under the impression it was a new noise& also I was wrong. See I can say it! I’ve had lots of practice .
Murf |
#35
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Of course now you've got me trying to remember if I used locktite on my converter bolts.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
#36
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I had this problem in my 400 before being rebuilt. It was a sticky lifter. I put a quart of Rislone in the motor and the lifter returned to normal.
The other possibility is a rocker arm didn't get torqued correctly and you have one or two loose ones. I'd start with those things and pull the valve covers if the Rislone doesn't fix it. |
#37
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#38
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Horrible noise in 400 at idle?
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Yay! That is about as happy an ending as we could hope for. Turbo69bird nailed the problem. So glad you found the issue, and shared the details. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by Vid; 02-06-2023 at 03:09 PM. |
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#39
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I use red Locktight on the bolt AND a jam nut on the other side with Locktight on it also.
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#40
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I'm curious what alternator you are running. Looks like a nice upgrade
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