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#1
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Dennis |
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#2
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They look good! Thanks, that's very helpful.
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#3
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On a manual drum brake car is there just a distribution block and not a proportioning valve?
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#4
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#5
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#6
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I found this on top of the gas tank! It's still mostly readable. Anyone know how I can decipher the codes?
Also, On the rear end housing, these brake line clips are probably going to brake off when I try to use them again because they are sooo rusty... Is there a solution other than welding on new clips? |
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#7
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Congrats on the buildsheet find!
I'm sure you'll get a decode of it, but a quick glance from me shows WR engine code which is 350 2bbl and 3.23 gear ratio.
__________________
John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! W.E.C moment "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
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#8
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Great luck on finding the Buildsheet !
You won't need to buy a PHS Invoice for the car. Sold new to dealer 08-371 Weidner Pontiac Co. 760 Park Ave. Mansfield, OH 44906 You can decipher the codes with some good reading glasses. In row #40 you have item #1 Row #43 you have items #2 and #4 (6) Row #47 you have item #4 etc ..... Its upside down and gets blurry when I try to magnify it. Axle code WF is 3.23 single-trac/peg-leg Carb code JE will be stamped onto carb where the part number and date code are stamped - if it is still original carb. |
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#9
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Attachment 608182Attachment 608180
Quote:
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#10
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Well, I have gotten nothing done this week. Out of town 2 days and sick the rest!
But I did sell my driver's door that was beyond my capability to fix. In removing the door panel, it is apparent that the vinyl surface is actually in good shape. The cardboard behind is warped. It doesn't show much in the picture but does show when it's mounted on the door. QUESTIONS: 1) Is there a way to flatten the cardboard back out? 2) If I re-mounted the vinyl on a flat cardboard, would cardboard from another A Body door panel work? , Which models and years would have the same cardboard as the Pontiac? I know where there are some Olds Cutlass and Chevelles...Maybe a Skylark... I'm going to stick the new door (purple)on temporarily and then get back to work underneath the car. |
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#11
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Quote:
Also thanks for the gear ratio/tire size/RPM calculator you put out there. It has been helpful to me and many others over the years! |
| The Following User Says Thank You to 79 Phoenix For This Useful Post: | ||
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#12
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Hard to read but the one at the top is your cam, i believe.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 400 Lemans For This Useful Post: | ||
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#13
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I appreciate you looking at this.. Yes, I think you are right. I wonder if it's even as much cam as original?
Anyway, the way the exhaust sounded when I listened to the video of it running before he removed it from his car bears this out. Very smooth and definitely no lope at all. It's all okay though because my objective isn't performance. If it was I would probably spend several more thousand building a 400 or 455. The more I think about it, I will probably just leave it as is. Maybe even remove the 4 bbl and use my 2 bbl manifold with rebuilt carb. A new cam might mean different push rods and possibly valve springs... I just don't want to put a lot of money into a ho-humm engine when I already have one that, though not powerful, runs decent... Similar to how the original once did. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to 79 Phoenix For This Useful Post: | ||
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#14
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Came across some great deals on parts I will definitely need this past week.
Both my front fenders are rusted beyond my ability to fix...fender and bracket rusted away. Also, there is evident bondo in both current fenders. Passenger is also bowed out somewhat. So, instead of getting patch panels I was able to get these fenders that I can fix myself. Brackets are solid and fenders are straight and otherwise in pretty nice shape. I also was fortunate to get and exceptional set of 15 X 7 HW code Rally II wheels that came off a 77 Can Am... Super clean and a great deal! BTW, if anyone is looking for a nice set of 15 X 7 HW or HM Rally IIs, priced reasonably,, he has another set in excellent shape. Let me know and I will get you contact info. Wheels are in NJ. Tomorrow back to working on underneath the rear. |
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#15
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This cam was installed after the original factory cam lost a lobe because valves adjusted too tight...at least on one cylinder.
So the guy I bought it from put this cam in with new lifters, pushrods and valve springs (and 4 bbl) as a repair to get the car back on the road. I'm guessing, because this cam was available not necessarily for performance. His plan was to build a 400 anyway, so he just wanted to get this one running well. I'm not looking for high performance from this 350 but would like it to run maybe a little better than stock. It has # 94 heads and a 625 cfm 4bbl carb. I'm thinking a cam that would give a slight boost in low to mid -range torque. Any suggestions or thoughts? |
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#16
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Question: Should 15 X 7 wheels off a 77 Can Am have 4 3/4" bolt pattern?
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#17
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Yes , they would.
And Can Am had White & Silver paint scheme on their R2 wheels. |
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#18
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Great. Thanks for the info!
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#19
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Continuing progress... Finished fixing rear quarter behind back tire. Started getting front end apart... It's further apart than pictures show. Still needs removal of bumper and core support. I have discovered core support is completely rotted out at frame mount...Hopefully I can get it repaired... The front body is complicated!! lots of parts!
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