[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

This still sounds like a driveshaft-length problem, not a ladder-bar adjustment problem.

If you need your axle to be "in the same place", DON'T dick with the axle adjustment.

How do you figure ? There is no driveshaft length problem with my car. Its just close, thats all. The front yoke does not bottom out on the T400 output shaft at any point, it can't.
Not sure why you say its a driveshaft length problem ?
Just looking for how many half turns to take up the .100 distance I am pushing the rear U joint back.
Looks like 1 1/2 half turns of the front rod ends will bring the rear ..125 forward after pushing it back .100
So I gain .025 more room getting the rear U joint out of the yoke for drive line removal and 1 1/2 threads more engagement on my rod ends.
Win,win.
.025 is close enough. Will never notice it and a lot easier than shortening and re-balancing my Strange drive line.

BTW, who makes the good 1350 U joints these days ? The kind with no grease zerk. These have been on forever, still in good shape.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

How many half turns of my ladder bar rod end will I need to make up for the .100" mid plate I am installing ? I want my axles in the same spot or close as I can get it.

Originally Posted by Dragncar

How do you figure ? There is no driveshaft length problem with my car. Its just close, thats all. The front yoke does not bottom out on the T400 output shaft at any point, it can't.
Not sure why you say its a driveshaft length problem ?
Just looking for how many half turns to take up the .100 distance I am pushing the rear U joint back.

IF you are not bottoming the splines on the U-joint yoke, you ARE NOT pushing the rear U-joint rearward.

THEREFORE, there is no need to move the axle via the ladder-bar adjustment. You want your axle "in the same spot or close as I can get it." So don't move it. It's already where you want it.

But moving the transmission rearward may take up the clearance you currently have with the splines. So MAYBE you need to shorten the driveshaft.

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Looks like 1 1/2 half turns of the front rod ends will bring the rear ..125 forward after pushing it back .100

I don't understand this at all. If you move the rear axle .125 forward, and the transmission goes rearward .100, you LOSE .225 clearance at the yoke splines that you're already tight on.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

IF you are not bottoming the splines on the U-joint yoke, you ARE NOT pushing the rear U-joint rearward.

THEREFORE, there is no need to move the axle via the ladder-bar adjustment. You want your axle "in the same spot or close as I can get it." So don't move it. It's already where you want it.

But moving the transmission rearward may take up the clearance you currently have with the splines. So MAYBE you need to shorten the driveshaft.


I don't understand this at all. If you move the rear axle .125 forward, and the transmission goes rearward .100, you LOSE .225 clearance at the yoke splines that you're already tight on.

Schurkey, it should have been one full turn for .083. I added a half turn for some reason and went the wrong way. I was trying to type this with company over. Too tired for company anyway. Day shift after a night shift with 3 hours sleep.
So its trans back .100 and extending rod ends one turn for .083 or one and a half for .125 .
I will be fine with the rear .083 back and there should be enough slip on the yoke for the .017 difference.
If for some reason I don't like it I will bite the bullet and buy a carbon fiber driveshaft. Been wanting one anyway, its a good excuse.