[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by Gach

Initially quality control is good, but don’t take it for granted.

For some reason my experience has been the opposite on the Chinese stuff. The first set of Eagle rods we had in the shop were 100% failure. Couldn't use any of them. Sent them back, no issue. The next set had 2 in spec. 6 out of spec. Called and asked for a supply of dowels so we could take them apart, cut them, hone them and use them. Good experience for the students. They were pissed on the phone but after calming them down they sent a little cloth bag of dowels. This was 10-12 years ago. As time has gone along, the rods have been better and better but we check every one for size, out of round and taper. About 5% or so now still need some touch-up in the hone to really be right. They almost always measure small when there is an issue so very easy to fix. Haven't had to cut an eagle rod in several years because it was too big. Press fit small ends are particularly tight. There is just no way to install them as delivered. Often have .003"-.004" press fit. That's just too darn tight. You would have to heat the small end to bright blue to get a pin in. That;s not the right way to do it. We hone them to .0016-.0018 press. That works great. Different shops have different methods. Some even press in at room temp. I don't want to move any metal installing wrist pins. Been using Molnar products for 3 years now. Have not had to machine anything. Still check every part though.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by 1_Wild_Cat

4" stroke crankshaft arrived today. Man that package is heavy...

How long did it take from day your order it, to actually get it in your hands

[Gach]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

For some reason my experience has been the opposite on the Chinese stuff. The first set of Eagle rods we had in the shop were 100% failure. Couldn't use any of them. Sent them back, no issue. The next set had 2 in spec. 6 out of spec. Called and asked for a supply of dowels so we could take them apart, cut them, hone them and use them. Good experience for the students. They were pissed on the phone but after calming them down they sent a little cloth bag of dowels. This was 10-12 years ago. As time has gone along, the rods have been better and better but we check every one for size, out of round and taper. About 5% or so now still need some touch-up in the hone to really be right. They almost always measure small when there is an issue so very easy to fix. Haven't had to cut an eagle rod in several years because it was too big. Press fit small ends are particularly tight. There is just no way to install them as delivered. Often have .003"-.004" press fit. That's just too darn tight. You would have to heat the small end to bright blue to get a pin in. That;s not the right way to do it. We hone them to .0016-.0018 press. That works great. Different shops have different methods. Some even press in at room temp. I don't want to move any metal installing wrist pins. Been using Molnar products for 3 years now. Have not had to machine anything. Still check every part though.

Whats the hp range of the majority of engines you build in school shop with students.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by Gach

Whats the hp range of the majority of engines you build in school shop with students.

This is an estimate. The majority of engines built are in the 450-500 HP range peak. But the variety is really interesting to me. We had a Model A Ford engine that made almost 50 HP! Stock was 24. We had a 289 Studebaker engine make 503 HP with stock iron heads and a tiny Vortech supercharger. We had an accurate replica of the Wright Brothers first engine, built from the original blueprints with original style aluminum block make 12.8 HP peak and scared us to death. Highest HP was a BBC 535 CU in twin turbo. At the time, our Dyno would only absorb 1000 ft. lbs. of torque. It overran our dyno at 3000 RPM's. So we don't know what kind of HP it really made. We have since upgraded to a 1500 ft. lb. absorber and software. Average student spends around 2K on parts for their build. We had a student build a 450 HP SBC with mostly used parts for $750.00. had a student build a 735 HP Kasse Boss 9 engine. He had around 20K in parts for that one. It's fun and challenging and all over the board. My co-teacher and I do feel a great responsibility making sure they do everything right because it's their money they are spending and we don't want any failures. Despite our best efforts, we have had a few in 20 years of doing this.

Back to Molnar, we have built about 8 engines with Molnar crankshafts and rods so far. SBF, SBC, 440 MOPAR, 2 Pontiacs. So a decent sample size. More to come I imagine. No failures at this point.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

This is an estimate. The majority of engines built are in the 450-500 HP range peak. But the variety is really interesting to me. We had a Model A Ford engine that made almost 50 HP! Stock was 24. We had a 289 Studebaker engine make 503 HP with stock iron heads and a tiny Vortech supercharger. We had an accurate replica of the Wright Brothers first engine, built from the original blueprints with original style aluminum block make 12.8 HP peak and scared us to death. Highest HP was a BBC 535 CU in twin turbo. At the time, our Dyno would only absorb 1000 ft. lbs. of torque. It overran our dyno at 3000 RPM's. So we don't know what kind of HP it really made. We have since upgraded to a 1500 ft. lb. absorber and software. Average student spends around 2K on parts for their build. We had a student build a 450 HP SBC with mostly used parts for $750.00. had a student build a 735 HP Kasse Boss 9 engine. He had around 20K in parts for that one. It's fun and challenging and all over the board. My co-teacher and I do feel a great responsibility making sure they do everything right because it's their money they are spending and we don't want any failures. Despite our best efforts, we have had a few in 20 years of doing this.

Back to Molnar, we have built about 8 engines with Molnar crankshafts and rods so far. SBF, SBC, 440 MOPAR, 2 Pontiacs. So a decent sample size. More to come I imagine. No failures at this point.

Coming from you someone who’s had real experience with Molnar products and not someone beating his chest, feeding his ego..because he bought a set of their rods, just gives me so much more faith in their products. God teaching this for a living must be awful rewarding. Although I’m sure there’s trying times. Thanks

[b-man]

Originally Posted by Gach

Coming from you someone who’s had real experience with Molnar products and not someone beating his chest, feeding his ego..because he bought a set of their rods, just gives me so much more faith in their products. God teaching this for a living must be awful rewarding. Although I’m sure there’s trying times. Thanks

Cool it Lou.

Make nice or I’ll make it myself.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

For some reason my experience has been the opposite on the Chinese stuff. The first set of Eagle rods we had in the shop were 100% failure. Couldn't use any of them. Sent them back, no issue. The next set had 2 in spec. 6 out of spec. Called and asked for a supply of dowels so we could take them apart, cut them, hone them and use them. Good experience for the students. They were pissed on the phone but after calming them down they sent a little cloth bag of dowels. This was 10-12 years ago. As time has gone along, the rods have been better and better but we check every one for size, out of round and taper. About 5% or so now still need some touch-up in the hone to really be right. They almost always measure small when there is an issue so very easy to fix. Haven't had to cut an eagle rod in several years because it was too big. Press fit small ends are particularly tight. There is just no way to install them as delivered. Often have .003"-.004" press fit. That's just too darn tight. You would have to heat the small end to bright blue to get a pin in. That;s not the right way to do it. We hone them to .0016-.0018 press. That works great. Different shops have different methods. Some even press in at room temp. I don't want to move any metal installing wrist pins. Been using Molnar products for 3 years now. Have not had to machine anything. Still check every part though.

Mike, Bud used to tell me “New does not mean good”. Just because a part or component is new doesn’t mean it complies to the desired specs. This is WHY I mic every part before it is installed in an engine. In the long run, it is cheap insurance.

[BILL BOWMAN1]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

Mike, Bud used to tell me “New does not mean good”. Just because a part or component is new doesn’t mean it complies to the desired specs. This is WHY I mic every part before it is installed in an engine. In the long run, it is cheap insurance.

I had a friend with a 540 Chevy, kept eating main bearings. Come to find out the brand new Eagle crank was bent.
CHECK EVERYTHING!! Especially brand new stuff!

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by BILL BOWMAN1

I had a friend with a 540 Chevy, kept eating main bearings. Come to find out the brand new Eagle crank was bent.
CHECK EVERYTHING!! Especially brand new stuff!

Precisely WHY you check every component
BEFORE assembling the engine.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by BILL BOWMAN1

I had a friend with a 540 Chevy, kept eating main bearings. Come to find out the brand new Eagle crank was bent.
CHECK EVERYTHING!! Especially brand new stuff!

Definitely the most critical check to Crank for straightness. Make sure machine shop asked to check.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by Gach

Definitely the most critical check to Crank for straightness. Make sure machine shop asked to check.

Gach, straightness, taper of the journals and journal finish are all equally important. We wouldn’t attempt to grind a crank that wasn’t straight.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

Gach, straightness, taper of the journals and journal finish are all equally important. We wouldn’t attempt to grind a crank that wasn’t straight.

Yes and a really good shop that knows to check it all.

[R 70 Judge]

Originally Posted by BILL BOWMAN1

I had a friend with a 540 Chevy, kept eating main bearings. Come to find out the brand new Eagle crank was bent.
CHECK EVERYTHING!! Especially brand new stuff!

I had brand new Crower sportsman rods going in my 505 and they had to be resized. I was very disappointed. I fully expected their stuff to be spot on. Live and learn I guess

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by R 70 Judge

I had brand new Crower sportsman rods going in my 505 and they had to be resized. I was very disappointed. I fully expected their stuff to be spot on. Live and learn I guess

It’s pretty much typical of the the entire industry post Covid. Of course, we had the same problem with aircraft recip engine connecting rods forty years ago. Nine chances out of ten the rods were finish honed on a rod hone with a power stroking attachment; the problem with power stroking attachments is they generate so much heat into the rod that the rods should be allowed to cool before final sizing. Let me guess: the big end bores were tight?

[Gach]

Yeah its like you have go over everything with a fine tooth comb. Like a complete list to check, starting with the block especially the block.

[Gach]

Hopefully the aftermarket for Pontiacs will get better.