[Shockwave78]

Originally Posted by steve25

Did you put back on the round oil splash shields on the top of each valve spring ?

They must be used to control oil flow to the stems when your just using the stock valve stem O-ring and not a positive valve guide mounted seal.

Bearing wise it looks like that with the level of oil dilution you where getting that spun bearings would have been in the cards soon!

I would say you will want to add a crank polish job to your list of machine shop work.

Yes I put the oil Shields in

[Gach]

Question, how was the motor running before you put new rings in and made cam change ? Just wondering if you where just making cam change what made you decide to hone and put new rings in.

[Shockwave78]

Originally Posted by Gach

Question, how was the motor running before you put new rings in and made cam change ? Just wondering if you where just making cam change what made you decide to hone and put new rings in.

It ran fine, but it pushed oil into the air cleaner from the valve cover breather. The cam and rings were planned before the engine came apart.

[grandam1979]

Originally Posted by Shockwave78

It ran fine, but it pushed oil into the air cleaner from the valve cover breather. The cam and rings were planned before the engine came apart.

Sounds like it just had bad blow by time for rings at minimum.

[Gach]

I’d say just honing and putting new rings in plus adding more cam, which would have created more power. Didn’t work and won’t in doing it all over again. I would bit the bullet, and go .030 with new pistons and rings, also would put some good valve seals in there and get rid of the O’rings. Or else you’ll be chasing your tail.

[Gach]

The new cam created more dynamic pressure. ( compression) just adding to your issues and new rings didn’t really do much. I’m thinking what ever your piston to wall clearances were or are now isn’t good, new rings may of help temporarily. Also thinking if all was ok initially it would’ve been short lived. Its just not sealing up, weather is the rings or valve seals, or A combination of both….just honing and putting in new rings is like a coin toss.

[Shockwave78]

Originally Posted by Gach

The new cam created more dynamic pressure. ( compression) just adding to your issues and new rings didn’t really do much. I’m thinking what ever your piston to wall clearances were or are now isn’t good, new rings may of help temporarily. Also thinking if all was ok initially it would’ve been short lived. Its just not sealing up, weather is the rings or valve seals, or A combination of both….just honing and putting in new rings is like a coin toss.

Before I tore the engine apart it was a daily for about a year, and didnt have any issues so I don't know how "short lived" it would have been. The car has done multiple cross country trips.

[Shockwave78]

Originally Posted by Gach

I’d say just honing and putting new rings in plus adding more cam, which would have created more power. Didn’t work and won’t in doing it all over again. I would bit the bullet, and go .030 with new pistons and rings, also would put some good valve seals in there and get rid of the O’rings. Or else you’ll be chasing your tail.

That would be ideal of course, but it's not like I'm the only person to do a cam swap, there is something else going on, it's just a matter of finding it. The other big factor is I start school on the 21st and it's a thousand mile drive back. I don't really have time for the machine shop on this schedule. I'm kicking around the idea of hand polishing the journals and putting new bearings in. I can't see any reason why a lightly grooved crank would pose a problem as long as there are not any bits sticking out and the clearances are good.