[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Any chance the splines on the pilot shaft are bottoming out against the pilot bushing?

Clay

That's a good thought! I was focused on the clutch setup!


.

[Singleton]

You stated that the flywheel was brand new. Don't assume that it was surfaced correctly from the factory.

Several years ago I had a similar issue, difficult to place the trans into first gear, grinding going to reverse. Everything was Brand New, Autogear M22, Hurst shifter, fork, throw-out bearing, clutch disc/PP, and Hays flywheel, all new.

Tried everything I could think of to the fix the issue, adjustable throw-out bearing, adjustable pivot, different clutch linkage, nothing worked.

Finally, after a couple thousand miles of putting up with the gear grinding, I decided to change the clutch and pp to a different manufacturer. I doing so I also figured that I would take the NEW Hays flywheel to the local machinist and have it resurfaced, for the hell of it. Turns out the flywheel surface was WAY off, not close to being true. That was my issue the whole time, even with the clutch depressed, the high point of the flywheel was touching the clutch disc at every revolution, just enough to keep the input shaft slowly spinning causing the gear grinding in reverse and the difficulty going into 1st gear.

So don't assume the new flywheel is true.

[HWYSTR455]

Very true on the surface, and to add to that, balance too.

I've never seen one so far out on surface runout to cause dis/engagement issues, but it could happen.



.

[abefromen]

[QUOTE="QUICK-SILVER";6457711]Any chance the splines on the pilot shaft are bottoming out against the pilot bushing?

I considered this too. I put grease on the nose of the input before installing the trans as always. It was dark moly lube type. When I took the trans out yesterday I looked at it and there was a "ring" of grease about midway or maybe a little further up towards the trans on the nose which told me it was not jammed all the way into the pilot bushing. I also test fit the bushing on the input nose to make sure it was not tight and when I drove it in I made sure it was in as far as it could go. It was flush with the hole in the crank.

Originally Posted by Singleton

You stated that the flywheel was brand new. Don't assume that it was surfaced correctly from the factory.

Several years ago I had a similar issue, difficult to place the trans into first gear, grinding going to reverse. Everything was Brand New, Autogear M22, Hurst shifter, fork, throw-out bearing, clutch disc/PP, and Hays flywheel, all new.

Tried everything I could think of to the fix the issue, adjustable throw-out bearing, adjustable pivot, different clutch linkage, nothing worked.

Finally, after a couple thousand miles of putting up with the gear grinding, I decided to change the clutch and pp to a different manufacturer. I doing so I also figured that I would take the NEW Hays flywheel to the local machinist and have it resurfaced, for the hell of it. Turns out the flywheel surface was WAY off, not close to being true. That was my issue the whole time, even with the clutch depressed, the high point of the flywheel was touching the clutch disc at every revolution, just enough to keep the input shaft slowly spinning causing the gear grinding in reverse and the difficulty going into 1st gear.

So don't assume the new flywheel is true.

Could it be so uneven that it won't allow gear engagement? I guess anything is possible because it is an offshore made part. Do you think your issue could have been the first clutch you were using and went away with the replacement and not really a flywheel prob?
...

[Singleton]

[QUOTE=abefromen;6457741]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Could it be so uneven that it won't allow gear engagement? I guess anything is possible because it is an offshore made part.
...

With mine, I could put the trans in 1st gear, but had to be VERY forceful with it. With engine not running it went to 1st easily. Reverse grinded everytime.

The machinist said that the flywheel was one of the worst he ever saw, and it was a brand name Hays, so yes, an offshore flywheel could be an issue. For nearly two years I tried everything to fix the issue. Had the trans out several times, different height throw-out bearings, forks, linkage, etc. Tried anything to get more of a disengagement, and I did get more, but it was never enough to fully cure the problem. I did use a different clutch/pp, but the issue was the flywheel. The original clutch/pp went into a different car soon after and had no issues.

Now I'm not going to say that the flywheel is definitely your problem, but just pointing out that you shouldn't overlook it.

[abefromen]

Originally Posted by Singleton

With mine, I could put the trans in 1st gear, but had to be VERY forceful with it. With engine not running it went to 1st easily. Reverse grinded everytime.

The machinist said that the flywheel was one of the worst he ever saw, and it was a brand name Hays, so yes, an offshore flywheel could be an issue. For nearly two years I tried everything to fix the issue. Had the trans out several times, different height throw-out bearings, forks, linkage, etc. Tried anything to get more of a disengagement, and I did get more, but it was never enough to fully cure the problem. I did use a different clutch/pp, but the issue was the flywheel. The original clutch/pp went into a different car soon after and had no issues.

Now I'm not going to say that the flywheel is definitely your problem, but just pointing out that you shouldn't overlook it.

Since it's all apart and staring me in the face I'll take it off and have it checked. Thanx for that suggestion.

[HWYSTR455]

[QUOTE=Singleton;6457747]

Originally Posted by abefromen

With mine, I could put the trans in 1st gear, but had to be VERY forceful with it. With engine not running it went to 1st easily. Reverse grinded everytime.

.

Just to say it out loud, you should always shift into 1st before you go into reverse, reverse is not synchronized.

.

[Singleton]

[QUOTE=HWYSTR455;6457786]

Originally Posted by Singleton

Just to say it out loud, you should always shift into 1st before you go into reverse, reverse is not synchronized..

Definitely, but if the input shaft starts turning again after going to 1st because of a partially engaged clutch disc, it's still going to grind in rev.

[abefromen]

[QUOTE=HWYSTR455;6457786]

Originally Posted by Singleton

Just to say it out loud, you should always shift into 1st before you go into reverse, reverse is not synchronized.

.

I remember a service bulletin regarding the grinding going into reverse. GM pretty much said it was normal and the trans needed "spin down time" after going from a forward gear to reverse to avoid gear clash.

My reverse gear and reverse idler were in surprisingly good shape. Trans is original to the car with 104K on it. I've seen some on Muncies ans ST10's that were really chewed.