#1  
Old 10-04-2023, 02:45 PM
Verdoro 68's Avatar
Verdoro 68 Verdoro 68 is offline
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Location: Clayton, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingbuzzo View Post
Verdero fighting with his rn apparently:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=869548
It was a battle, but I *think* I've finally conquered the seal (knock on wood).

What I learned is that the graphtite seal isn't as foolproof as it may seem. Then again, maybe I'm just a special level of fool LOL.

Given my experience, I wouldn't recommend installing any real main seal with a crank in place because of the cleaning and the prep required in the cap and the block. I'm sure it has be done successfully, just seems to add another layer of risk to a labor intensive procedure. You can't install the one piece with the crank in place anyway.

Lots of people say you can't use the Viton seal with serrated cranks, but Wade at BOP will tell you differently. The factory crank serrations are also way less aggressive than aftermarket cranks and more amenable to Viton. That said, I did have my Eagle crank polished down before I installed the one piece for insurance.

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'68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around)
'74 Ventura 350
'69 AMC Javelin SST
  #2  
Old 10-13-2023, 03:10 PM
79 Phoenix's Avatar
79 Phoenix 79 Phoenix is offline
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On further investigation of the engine that is currently in my car, I found the block serial # which includes the last 6 digits of my car's VIN. So, that indicates it is an original number matching engine, right? Also found the large 350 casting on drivers side.

Is there a way I can find out what WN means on the ID#?

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