[lust4speed]

I might have missed it. Was the actual cam card posted?

Somewhere above I also read something about racers and cruisers, and not needing to be a racer. Actually, the suggested centerline by the cam company will provide the best efficiency, and as an added benefit, the most power. Any additional movement would be nothing more than a band-aid and probably reduce power and possibly raise temps. If you are wanting to band-aid the engine to reduce dynamic compression it would require a slight retard of the cam.

I've never seen an accurate timing chain setup where you could even start to trust the advance or retard keys. Most are ±1° up to almost 2° off.

Most of the heads I've had the machine shops clean up usually didn't exceed a .006" cut. The 10.75 ratio quoted by Pontiac was always closer to about 10.25:1 to start with, and that is still too much for today's premium pump gas.

As far as FelPro, they specify a crushed thickness of .039" and the used gaskets I've removed were right at that.

A great cooling system will remove heat from minor to mild build mistakes, a marginal cooling system won't remove heat from a properly running engine. Where does your system fall?

[NeighborsComplaint]

6* BTDC for initial advance will make it run hot.

You need 12* BTDC to run right but your total timing needs to be limited so it doesn’t detonate. Get a recurve kit and keep the total timing around 28* with your CR.

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

6* BTDC for initial advance will make it run hot.

You need 12* BTDC to run right but your total timing needs to be limited so it doesn’t detonate. Get a recurve kit and keep the total timing around 28* with your CR.

Believe it or not I purchased all the parts for my Distributor, a curve kit with weights and springs, the adjustable Vacuum canister and a special stop device that looks like a ruffle potato chip for lack of better terms. I read up on how and why to do this. I now put that in the same category as this hype to advance the Cam bull. Yes, I will probably try that procedure if not just for the experience of trying something new. This Distributor that came with this project uses Electronic Ignition (MSD) Tech. and is factory timed at 6 degrees BTDC and all in by 3000- 3500 rpm @ 39 degrees and works well for my stock application, if it isn't broken don't fix it. I believe it is the Cam timing that is way over done, that is if the person is correct in that the instructions are wrong and that 8 Crank degrees means 16 and 4 cam degrees means 8, then I am too far advanced. So, I go back to the start and use the degree wheel and use factory 113.5 and forget race application as a wet dream. However, if after I go back to factory Cam 113.5 advance and I still over heat, I will follow your advice and recurve the distributor. Would you have me send the Distributor out to be spun by a pro? Also, of the two-timing issues discussed here which would you do first?

P.S. Keep in mind that this is a current overheating issue manifesting itself after the Heads were remanufactured and the Cam timing was advanced to 109 from 113.5 BTDC. By the way I proved the above numbers to be true and the Cam is to Melling specs, so how can the person who said the instructions are wrong be correct? More confusion!

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I might have missed it. Was the actual cam card posted?

Somewhere above I also read something about racers and cruisers, and not needing to be a racer. Actually, the suggested centerline by the cam company will provide the best efficiency, and as an added benefit, the most power. Any additional movement would be nothing more than a band-aid and probably reduce power and possibly raise temps. If you are wanting to band-aid the engine to reduce dynamic compression it would require a slight retard of the cam.

I've never seen an accurate timing chain setup where you could even start to trust the advance or retard keys. Most are ±1° up to almost 2° off.

Most of the heads I've had the machine shops clean up usually didn't exceed a .006" cut. The 10.75 ratio quoted by Pontiac was always closer to about 10.25:1 to start with, and that is still too much for today's premium pump gas.

As far as FelPro, they specify a crushed thickness of .039" and the used gaskets I've removed were right at that.

A great cooling system will remove heat from minor to mild build mistakes, a marginal cooling system won't remove heat from a properly running engine. Where does your system fall?

We did not get a Cam Card at all, we used the Melling "041" Cam info. from the internet to prove this Cam was advanced to 113.5 BTDC as advertised. We used the fourth notch which is 8 degrees advanced at the Crank and that equates to four degrees at the Cam. The current advance tested at .050" on the intake Lobe is 109-109.5 BTDC advanced, the Cam is milled and we proved it to be correctly milled as Melling states.

We are stumped to why we gained heat after having the Heads remanufactured. We also performed the 421 and Pontiac cooling mods on the Block and heads and expected the motor to be even cooler than before. We are seeing temp. risen to the "as using the AC" in traffic. Normally prior to these recent repairs, I used a side kick fan and a Fan in front of the Condenser unit as extra cooling when running the AC. We thought we could get by without using the extra fans due to the 421 and Pontiac cooling mods that we did.

Now, I go around the block a couple of times without the AC and the temps. are 220 F degrees at the gauge which is reading plus 30 degrees higher, than the actual temp. Which is 190 degrees F. The only additive I have not reinstalled is the Water wetter that I normally use. I can't imagine lack of that one ingredient to be the culprit, then again, I should not discount its purpose, in which I have been using it for years.

We are using a gallon of antifreeze and distilled water. The radiator is new copper and I use a Temp. Clutch HD truck type with Factory Fan and Shroud. The 180-degree Special thermostat has 3 bypass holes in it. Yes, we have a very good cooling system installed. We are burning Rec-89 unleaded without alcohol and the fuel is well filtered with a bypass return to the fuel tank with Tri-power Carbs. We use two fuel lines forward via an electric fuel pump. There is no under the hood high temps. and the Carbs. are air induction via a scoop out the hood near the windshield.

The temp. readings all around the Engine compartment using a Lazor gauge are good. I have many band aids to keep the under-hood temps down that I needed to get where I am now like modifying the water pump, blocking the exhaust crossovers off under the intake manifold. The Carbs. are wrapped in insulation as well as the lines to each one. The intake manifold has a specially manufactured Phenolic between the Vally pan and under the intake lower base.

The fuel bowls have Phenolic plates under them as well. We followed the instructions to the letter to block off holes in the block and to drill the holes in the heads between the exhaust ports. The water fills the block first and raises toward the rear 4 cylinders upper head and flows out the water pump without dropping down into the lower block. This is called 421 and Pontiac cooling mods.

I am going to set the Cam timing to a factory 113.5 and add the water wetter back into the system and lastly recurve the Distributor as suggested by a member. Anyone with other ideas, please make suggestions. Mike out.