[tom s]

Mick,he said it was disc.In the 60 years I have been doing this stuff I have never seen a pontiac engine that showed signs of pre ing or detonation at 24 total degrees of timing with no load.There is more than meets the eyes and ears here IMHO.Tom

[TRADERMIKE 2012]

Originally Posted by tom s

Mike, he said it was disc. In the 60 years I have been doing this stuff I have never seen a Pontiac engine that showed signs of pre- ing or detonation at 24 total degrees of timing with no load. There is more than meets the eyes and ears here IMHO. Tom

We took it out tonight, perhaps a little more info. might help, I could sure use it. Timing is new to me, I read a lot about it, but I have yet to experience its benefits. So far, we attempted advancing the Cam and failed to find a suitable range that we can use productively, we can get back to that later. We have four notches on the adjustable timing Gear to experiment with one day in the future. We went back to zero degrees BTDC @ the Crank adjustable Gear. By the way, this "041" Cam is degreed in properly by using the new Degree Wheel and the proof and method is in this earlier Thread, if you need to look back. We have the Factory Melling "041" Cam with 1-1/2 * advance built into it from Melling and it is installed straight-up.

Last night we did your test and then we went back to Ignition timing @ 6 degrees BTDC.

11/11/23 Test and Tune, 80 degrees F. ambient Temp., 75% Humidity. Road and Highway Test.

(1) Ran 200 degrees F. - 30 = 170 F. After calibrating the I/P water gauge, we get the actual. My I/P water gauge reads higher than the Actual temp.

(2) After moving for about 3 miles the temp. was raised from 170* actual to 220- 30= 190 degrees F. and I turned on the sidekick and the condenser Fans, continued to test drive at that same temp. for 2 more miles, until we stopped at the gas station to put Rec. 89 in the tank. We opened the Hood and there was no Radiant heat coming out, the radiator cap read 175* F. and we fueled up with the Hood up. The upper hose was not super hard anymore as in the recent past prior to cleaning the radiator cap.

(3) On the way back home another 5 miles, I forgot to turn on the sidekick and condenser fans and she went up to 190* actual @ the I/P it was 220* F. We maintained that temp. all the way home. The upper radiator hose was not hard when we opened the hood and the radiator cap read 180* F. actual.

(4) We stayed in the drive way for about 10 min. stopped and turned off, we turned on both the side kick and the condenser fans to cool with the hood open, they are directly attached to 12 volts and fused, "not" going through the Ignition series, purposefully.

(5) We are @ 6 BTDC. initial timing. We hear some slight lifter noise, now that it is hotter and the oil has thinned out. Why?

(6) In Neutral we are @ 1200 RPM and in Drive @ 800 RPM, little high in my opinion, my roommate said, "for the AC reasons".

(7) No AC used on this Test and we did use the Gear Vendors unit.

(8) Second Test run tonight. We headed north on I-95 at 70 MPH for about 20 min. ride, all was good, same back, when we got to Hillsboro Blvd., my main road home, the car turned off at the light. We had to sit in traffic for 15 min. to let it cool. My roommate did not like that, I said take it easy, calm down and direct people around us and don't worry. I told him that we must sit for 15 min. to let the Engine cool before we can re-start this Engine this is not my first rodeo. We are blocking traffic and this is rush hour, I told him to continue to direct the traffic around us calmly, because nothing can be done.

I am not going to move and hit someone in a panic, as in the past. The first thing I did was to turn on the two inner emergency Fans, the trusty Sidekick and Handy Condenser Fan for about 5 min. We waited for the upper radiator hose to get softer and it did, in only 15 min. and the Batt. gets a rest and it started right up again, we were on our way. The temp. was 200* F. at the I/P and an actual 170* F., Because it was not over heated this should "not" have stopped "nor" was it vapor locked. The only thing that I can think of is that the Heads are being broken in and this is the first time we have gone high way speed, since we had the Heads remanufactured. Further Testing to come.

(9) We went home @ 45 MPH to cool down the Engine, we were at an actual 190* F. on the test ride home.

We opened the Hood when we got home and there was no radiant heat under the hood, as in the past.

Why did this Engine get persnickety on us? It can only be because the Vehicle has been off the road for two years and the Heads were just reman., along with rebuilt Carbs. There was a piece of debris in the
Tri-power center Carbs. accelerator pump area, that we found after we rebuilt the Trans. Even though we do all these different projects with this Motor, we just have to get all the smaller recent repairs to work with the over-all existing systems, what a challenge it is like starting all over, this is not the same Engine that I purchased 10 years ago!

If we decide to measure the under-Hood temps. We can use the extra water temp. gauge that I have in stock from the extra parts that came from out of the former owner's warehouse. My roommate may have the Test equipment or he will get it from work.