#1  
Old 11-26-2023, 01:17 PM
Kenth's Avatar
Kenth Kenth is online now
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The Kingdom of Sweden
Posts: 6,097
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve25 View Post
The last use of the oil spurt holes in the rods was in early 67 326 and 389 Motors.
WRONG!
1966 was the last year for 389.
Connecting rods with oil spurtholes was eliminated in September 1972.

FWIW

__________________
1966 GTO Tri-Power
1970 GTO TheJudge
http://www.poci.org/
http://gtoaa.org/
  #2  
Old 11-26-2023, 01:43 PM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
Suspended
 
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Coconut creek FL
Posts: 1,171
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenth View Post
WRONG!
1966 was the last year for 389.
Connecting rods with oil spurt holes was eliminated in September 1972.

FWIW
Does my 1967 428 ci motor have these squirt holes?

  #3  
Old 11-26-2023, 02:18 PM
Kenth's Avatar
Kenth Kenth is online now
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The Kingdom of Sweden
Posts: 6,097
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012 View Post
Does my 1967 428 ci motor have these squirt holes?
It obviously have as you can see on your pictures, "only" problem they should aim towards camshaft and since they´re not the rods are mounted backword leaving less or no room for the rod bearing to the chamfer on crank resulting in glitter in oil, drag on crank and excessive heat building.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	CRANK 6.jpg
Views:	1074
Size:	100.6 KB
ID:	623810  

__________________
1966 GTO Tri-Power
1970 GTO TheJudge
http://www.poci.org/
http://gtoaa.org/
  #4  
Old 11-27-2023, 05:31 AM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
Suspended
 
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Coconut creek FL
Posts: 1,171
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenth View Post
It obviously have as you can see on your pictures, "only" problem they should aim towards camshaft and since they´re not the rods are mounted backward leaving less or no room for the rod bearing to the chamfer on crank resulting in glitter in oil, drag on crank and excessive heat building.
Mikes reply:

OK, looking at the same photo that you reposted of my Crank, the Rod on the right needs to be swapped over and turned to the left side in that view and the one on the left needs to be on the right, this way that obvious chamfer will be toward the outside, adjacent to the crank Journal rounds. That Chamfer is to clear the weights of the Crank too.

We took the measurements in the past and posted them to this Thread. Could you look at those numbers of the side clearances that we provided to see if they are within spec and whether there is a good reason that this Engine runs the way it was built. Rite, wrong or indifferent, it has enough clearance to function in this real-world example, without overheating, frying or blowing up either.

I can attest to the fact, that the Heats we experienced in the Engine compartment, in this Vehicle, over the last ten years, were unbearable. However, over the years, we band-aided or masked these under hood symptoms that raised heat issues/problems and continued to evolve toward the factory professional way of reducing heat, in an Engine compartment.

One, we added a reverse Trans-am scoop to give us cool air to the Carbs. Plus, we use rec-89-90 unleaded fuel less Alcohol that boils or percolates at 186 degrees F. approx., Later than 176 degrees F. approx. then fuel with Alcohol in it.

We added a HD Truck type Clutch fan, factory shroud, 180-degree Thermostat with 3 drilled by-pass holes. We modified the water pump, drilled the block and Heads and blocked off holes in order to perform the 421and Pontiac cooling mods. We have an additional Side-kick and condenser elec. fans to back us up when running the AC.


We have the Trans. and motor oil coolers with remote oil filters on both, to cool their fluids better. I blocked off the Exhaust crossovers and installed a heat block off phenolic under the Intake Manifolds and above the Vally pan. I wrapped the Headers. I return the fuel back to the Gas tank and then there are the band-aids like wrapping fuel lines, Phenolics covering the fuel bowls and lines etc... lastly but not leastly, so we just added a new radiator Cap, that went bad from the Vehicle sitting for too long.

There is no excessive heat at this time and the only thing to complain about is this newest ghost noise. So, if this ghost noise disappears after replacing the Flexplate, Could I drive safely as long as all the tolerances, clearances and specs within range?

Look back in the attachment area for the posted clearances between the Rods and the Crank and piston to Cylinder walls.

  #5  
Old 11-27-2023, 08:08 AM
P@blo's Avatar
P@blo P@blo is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 1,743
Default

Well the idea that you have a special 1967 "hipo" 428 with a factory tri- power has been disproven. All you have is a cobbled 428 that needs most of the messy work done to it undone to be made right. And now you are asking if half assing would be okay?

Reality check time Mike, seriously.

P@blo is now out too and I am suprised Kenth is still trying to help.

  #6  
Old 11-27-2023, 09:12 AM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
Suspended
 
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Coconut creek FL
Posts: 1,171
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P@blo View Post
Well the idea that you have a special 1967 "HI-PO" 428 with a factory tri- power has been disproven. All you have is a cobbled 428 that needs most of the messy work done to it undone to be made right. And now you are asking if half assing would be, okay?

Reality check time Mike, seriously.

P@blo is now out too and I am surprised Kenth is still trying to help.

Mikes reply:


It's like being held up by a life preserver, from my point of view, this sucks...

This latest assembly will tell me if the noise goes away, but it physically won't fix the irreputable faulty build. The wrong information in the Piston photo, viewed from front or back of the motor, would have "not" duped a real mechanic, either. There is no excuse for this, anymore. It was bad enough that I had to undo most of the mechanical work that was performed by my predecessor, now this. The Trans. breaking, that came out of left-field, as well. I can see now, "why these aftermarket builders of Auto- cross race cars are raising the drive train up into the cab". In order to spare people with lowered Vehicles from damage like I sustained, when going over a root, hidden under an Asphalt driveway. For what it's worth, I won't go back to that guy's house until this vehicle works again, the place is jinxed.

How this Engine worked (from 1968 build) prior to my ownership and my predecessor's ownership and all the way back to the moon shiners and back to when it was actually raced, is the question? It worked for me for 7,000 miles, until I damaged the Trans. with one (# 866) worn out Cam and Lifters, no less. Then it continued to run with the "041" Cam.

HOW? This must mean that this used Engine can run in the out of normal condition, as some have said; notwithstanding, the possible damage that can happen over time, noted by some others. Am I seeing the end of the line? The answer to that question will come next weekend, according to my plan of attack. Taking bets, send Mike a Doller each VS an attaboy, if I lose.

P.S. The saga continues...Mike out.


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 11-27-2023 at 09:26 AM.
Closed Thread

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:15 AM.

 

About Us

The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




Copyright © 2017