[HWYSTR455]

Like I said, the knock-off tubular lower arms are fine, I run them in the 442, held them right next to a set of GWs and measured roughly without seeing any diff. Again, just change the ball joint.

The uppers is where certain arms come into play, there are differences, especially for an AFX spindle. You can save money on the lowers, but recommend getting an upper specific to the AFX spindle.

The UMI uppers I think come with tall ball joints, but can't remember.

The Speedtech uppers are $40 more than the UMI. Save the money on the lower, get the knock-offs, and spend an extra $40 for the Speedtech uppers. You might even get a deal from Speedtech if you're buying the spindles.


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[HWYSTR455]

The Global West ones are right inbetween those two in price:

https://www.globalwest.net/cta-42a.html


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[PontiacMatt72]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Like I said, the knock-off tubular lower arms are fine, I run them in the 442, held them right next to a set of GWs and measured roughly without seeing any diff. Again, just change the ball joint.
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Ordered a set of the “knock-off” tubular lower control arms, along with some proforged ball joints (uppers and lowers). Already have a set of used GW tubular upper control arms.

I assume the sway bar links that come on the “knock-off” lower arms are sufficient? They (sway bar end links) have some adjustability to them… any tips or tricks to getting that adjustment set correctly?

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[HWYSTR455]

When the car is on the ground, the ends of the sway bar should be parallel to the ground. That is what's considered a neutral setting and is the baseline.

If the car feels like it has a better turn-in going to the left or right, you shorten the opposite end link. But most people just leave it in the neutral setting.

You can use corner weights to help determine which side you might need to tighten/loosen, but it's to some degree a personal preference. Driver weight/load does play a part.



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[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by PontiacMatt72

Ordered a set of the “knock-off” tubular lower control arms, along with some proforged ball joints (uppers and lowers). Already have a set of used GW tubular upper control arms.

I assume the sway bar links that come on the “knock-off” lower arms are sufficient? They (sway bar end links) have some adjustability to them… any tips or tricks to getting that adjustment set correctly?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The adjustable links that come on the arms don't pose any mechanical issues, but the heim joints used in them are typically quite loose and are noisy while you drive the car.

You may wish to use some spray lithium grease on the heims to help with this. Or get these from Global West which will be a better item.