[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by bluebandit

Did you attach the bar to the frame with the suspension dropped down or was it setting on the tires? Would it be possible for the bushings to grip the bar enough to add a little height similar to tightening control arm bushings with the suspension suspended?

Great way to destroy the bushings quickly. They should only be snugged when the car is sitting on the tires. Otherwise, they are torsionally loaded beyond their design limits and will split. Bushings are NOT torsion bars.

[1968GTO421]

Originally Posted by geeteeohguy

[/B]

Great way to destroy the bushings quickly. They should only be snugged when the car is sitting on the tires. Otherwise, they are torsionally loaded beyond their design limits and will split. Bushings are NOT torsion bars.

Excellent advice. I learned the hard way in the 1960's to not tighten things up until sitting on the tires. Been doing it geeteeohguy's way since then after a neighborhood mechanic told me the correct way. Back then it was a cheap lesson costing only four new bushings at 1965 prices.

[HWYSTR455]

Not sure that's correct, when I install the front bar, I can grab an end of the bar and it moves freely when the end links are not connected. Pretty certain it should move freely. It only loads when the wheels move at different heights.

Most of the poly bushings even come with lube.

Now if you don't have the correct size bushing, it will prevent the bar from moving if you crank it down.

I know sometimes people get mixed up and buy the wrong bushings, because there's a number of different diameter bars. I think some of the H-O bars were like 1 3/8, might even have been one that was 1 1/16, but don't recall exactly. But I know not all companies make the 'odd' size bushings.


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[HWYSTR455]

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=841032

[64speed]

Ok it’s finally getting cold enough here in SC to need a choke. I have the double pumper brawler with the electric choke. My problem is that no matter where I adjust it my start up charteristics are worse than just wiring it open. If I mash the accelerator to set it all it does is die immediately. If I wire it open and hit the accelerator once it fires up, stays running albeit slow and is ready to go after 3-4 minutes. Where do I start?

[Gach]

Some thoughts, if you set the electric choke so its closed completely, then you will have that issue. Try setting it so its A quarter open. To be honest the chokes are very touchy, so I never use one. The ones that work with a little heat riser off the intake probably worked the best but I understand you have a electric one. I think you’re gonna find your better off not to even use a choke.

[Sirrotica]

Here you go, You Tube is your friend:

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+double+pumper

If you have no real background of how, and why a choke/carb works, you're really gonna be shooting in the dark though. You have to have a choke pulloff to crack the choke open as soon as the car starts, and it has to open the correct amount to supply enough air to keep it from dying. The fast idle cam also need to hold the primaries open at the same time. There are settings for both of these adjustments that need to be correct for idle quality.

Shaker455, a member here has very good reviews for setting up Holley carbs. You might ask him to do it, (of course this means putting the car down while you send the carb off to him) or ask him to give you some instruction long distance.

I wouldn't think a double pumper is going to respond well with 4 accelerator circuit shots going to primary, and secondaries, unless the secondaries are locked out with the choke closed. Probably the reason I used Q Jets on most everything I've ever owned.

Good luck...