| FAQ |
| Members List |
| Social Groups |
| Calendar |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
I would leave the N crank in it if it’s looking as good as you say.
That crank is more than adequate for what you’re doing, with a lighter set of rods and pistons it’ll be even better than before. Stock 2-bolt mains and bolts should be fine as well. You’re kinda on the edge of where using a forged crank would be better but if budget is a big concern you’re probably fine keeping the N crank. If you do change the crank then some studs for the main caps along with an align hone would be a good idea since you’re spending all that dough. An aftermarket cast crank shouldn’t even be a consideration. It’s up to you whether or not it’s worth throwing another $1500 into the build to upgrade the bottom end and that’s keeping the stock 2-bolt caps.
__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to b-man For This Useful Post: | ||
| Reply |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|